Plastering walls with your own hands - advice from an experienced plasterer

Plastering walls is a fundamental process of any renovation. If you have smooth walls, then even cheap furniture will fit harmoniously and fit against the walls and corners without gaps. If you have already decided on the choice of plaster and calculated the required amount of material, then let’s talk about the preparation and the plastering technology itself.

What tool to plaster walls

I will note the main tools for manual application, and we’ll talk about them. And so, what we need:

What are the application methods?

Depending on the size of the surface to be plastered, as well as the included components, methods of applying plaster can be:

• manual (trowel, roller, trowel, ladle or just hands);
• mechanized (using a hopper, plastering machines).

The choice of application method is often dictated by how much plaster can be applied per pass. When performing work manually, some types of mixtures are applied in a layer up to 6 cm thick. Mechanical application is limited to creating a layer of up to 20 mm.

Among the manual methods of plastering walls, there are different application methods:

• technical (leveling) finishing with or without beacons;
• decorative (application with various tools, shaping the surface using various techniques) finishing.

Manual application

Plastering walls with your own hands involves applying a solution to the base with a hand tool, leveling, smoothing or forming a textured surface in one pass, or sequentially creating a multi-layer coating. Manual plastering of walls is usually carried out with a small coverage area, a total thickness of the leveling layer of up to 10 - 12 cm, and a final textured finish. With multi-layer finishing, each layer is dried.

Mechanized application

It is rational to use this method of performing plastering work when there is an optimal combination of plastering speed, low cost of materials (part of the money is saved on expensive machine work), and a large volume of coating.

Plastering walls using a plastering machine is more economical in terms of:

• expenditure of effort;
• time spent;
• consumption of plastering materials;
• financial expenses for the purchase of plaster mixtures, which are cheaper for machine work.

Other advantages:

• small volumes of waste;
• uniform application and improvement in quality, due to machine control of the SS-water ratio;
• supplying the mixture to the surface under pressure increases adhesion to the base;
• Due to the uniformity of mixing and layer application, the overall strength characteristics of mechanical finishing are higher than those of manual finishing.

Minuses:

not always, not applicable everywhere

Mechanical equipment for plastering varies in level of sophistication. They use small-scale mechanization (hoppers, sprayers) or even machine devices that mix the plaster mixture and apply it when air is supplied by a compressor.

Apply the mixture, holding the nozzle 20 - 30 cm from the wall, moving the working part of the apparatus along the surface at the same speed. After finishing work, all parts in contact with the solution are washed and dried. Be sure to use eye protection.

Sealing cracks

It is common for new buildings to undergo a shrinkage process within a year or two. Plastering new houses with mineral plaster solutions during this period leads to the appearance of cracks. Cracks also occur in houses with a long service life. All cracks need repair. Large cracks require special repairs. Such defects are “healed” using reinforcing mesh.

Cracks with an opening of up to 5 mm are considered small. They can be covered with putty or cement mortar, which is more liquid than masonry mortar. Medium cracks on the surface opened up to 10 mm are “treated” with a CPS solution (cement-sand), having previously been expanded. Large (more than 10 mm) formations are sanitized with a solution using crushed stone and reinforcement.

They try to pump the solution deeper into the crack, using a construction syringe for this. Before sealing the cracks with the solution, the area of ​​the brick and concrete wall is cleaned of dust and moistened. A piece of mesh is placed over the area with the crack body covered, which is secured to the wall with self-tapping screws. Plaster the area over the mesh.

Joint jointing of brickwork

Sealing cracks with a construction gun

Fastening the reinforcing mesh

Plaster over mesh

Preparing walls for plaster

Plastering walls with your own hands also involves preparation. Any finishing begins with preparation; the better the surface is prepared, the less chance you have of cracking or pieces of mortar falling off. Below we will look at different options for preparing walls and the features of plaster. Let's start with primer and what it is.

Padding

Preparation may include different stages, it all depends on the condition of the surface. One of the most important stages of semi-preparing is priming the walls (I devoted a separate article to this). It comes in several types, but we will need a maximum of two:

Deep impregnation primer - Liquid composition, sold in cans, yellow or white. It is often concentrated, so dilution is required in the proportion indicated on the canister. Applied with a brush or roller, it penetrates the surface and binds small particles both outside and in the depth of penetration.

Sand primer, putzgrunt, betonkontakt - Primer designed for better adhesion of smooth concrete surfaces. It contains quartz sand. Mix well before use. It is advisable to pre-prime the surface with a deep-penetrating primer. Apply with a large brush in different directions. After application, you need to wait for complete drying, preferably a day.

General preparation

We remove the old wallpaper, everything that rings does not hold well and falls off. Do I need to prime? Any surface must be primed before plastering or puttying. If your surface is well prepared, that’s a third of the success.

Removing old plaster

If you need to level old walls, then initially you need to tap it, you may need to knock off poorly adhering pieces of old mortar or knock it all down. We'll talk about how to shoot down a little lower. Then we remove as much dust as possible from the surface and prime with deep penetration soil. Wait for the primer to dry completely.

How to remove old plaster? what to beat off with? For this we need:

1. Rotary hammer, with spatula attachment
2. Hammer
3. Respirator, gloves, headphones
4. Garbage bags

Plastering walls usually occurs in several stages, one of them is preparing and dismantling the old coating. We begin to beat off the layer of solution from the places where it best comes off and falls off. If a conventional hammer drill does not cope with its task, then you will need a large, powerful hammer drill (you can rent it for the day) and things will go much faster. When everything has been cleared away, we dust the surface, either vacuum it or sweep everything off the surface. We collect the collected waste in bags and take it away. After we managed to remove the old plaster and collect all the debris, we prime the surface with deep-penetrating primer, preferably 2 times.

Comparison of gypsum plaster with cement and plasterboard

Below are the main criteria of interest to those who are planning to start finishing walls and ceilings.

Gypsum plaster: technical characteristics of the composition in comparison with cement

Cement-sand mixtures have always been popular, both as rough leveling and for finishing. Gypsum plaster has excellent reviews, although it has been widely used relatively recently. Let's make a comparison between these materials.

• Price. There is no fundamental difference here. If we take it by weight, gypsum is more expensive, however, it also weighs less per 1 m2 of coating, so in the end we get approximately the same cost.
• Viability of the solution. Here the gypsum loses, since it sets quite quickly. The maximum setting time is 120 minutes, but this is only true for mixtures intended for machine application. On average, the material “lives” for 45-90 minutes. In the case of cement, 120 minutes is the average time.

Cement coating

• Durability and vapor permeability of gypsum or cement plaster, which is better? There are no significant differences here.
• Thermal conductivity. The cement hardens much faster, and the coating feels colder to the touch.
• Scope of application. Cement can be used both outside and inside buildings. Gypsum plaster is not used for exterior use, only for interior use.
• Aesthetic qualities. Gypsum plaster is more flexible; the surface can have any texture, either specified by the composition or applied manually.

Applying texture to plaster

Plaster VS Drywall

Plasterboard sheets are widely used today for leveling and modeling surfaces. It is even called “dry plaster”. Let's see which is better, drywall or plaster.

• Decorative qualities. GCRs provide only a smooth coating, without any texture, but with the help of it you can change the shape of the walls. Gypsum plaster allows you to obtain surfaces with different textures and relief.

Walls in plasterboard

• Difficult to install. It's hard to say here. GCRs are installed without unnecessary dirt, but not too soon. Most of the time is spent installing the sheathing on the walls or ceiling. Finishing with plaster is done quite quickly, especially if you have experience. But the foundation requires careful preparation.
• Performance characteristics. If the gypsum board sheet is damaged, it will have to be completely replaced, but local repairs can be made to the plaster. And it has a longer service life.
• Plaster or drywall, which is cheaper. The first will definitely cost less, both in terms of purchasing materials and paying for the work of the master.

Walls in gypsum plaster

Preparing various surfaces

I repeat that different surfaces are prepared slightly differently, that’s all the difference. As much as I would like to write the same thing, demand creates supply.

Aerated concrete, gas block, foam block

Clean with a spatula (35cm) from excess glue and poorly adhering particles. Without sparing the primer, we saturate the wall with deep penetration soil. How to plaster foam blocks inside and outside? The inside can be plastered with either gypsum or cement. But on the outside, only with cement plaster, having previously reinforced the surface with façade fiberglass mesh. Plastering walls with your own hands from gas silicate blocks is carried out in exactly the same way as on other surfaces.

Brick

The protruding mortar and protruding bricks are beaten off with a hammer and everything is also primed. The whole difference in plastering brick and other surfaces is the preparation, although the preparation all boils down to the fact that we remove it, beat off the excess and prime it well. The plastering technology is the same as on other walls, read below in the chapter about technology. If a brick is chipped, or there is a large gap between the ceiling and walls, then it is better to seal such brick gaps with a cement-sand mortar 1:4 (sand-cement). This type of masonry mortar has much better load-bearing characteristics than the plaster mixture.

Arbolite slabs

Preparation and plastering of wood concrete slabs is carried out in the same way as on brick surfaces.

Panel house, concrete walls

All excess is removed from the concrete surface. We carry out a thorough cleaning; if the walls are plastered with gypsum plaster, then the concrete is primed with sandy soil or concrete contact. If it is cement, then it is simply primed. Wait for the primer to dry completely. And only then the solution is applied.

Wooden surfaces, SIP panels, OSB(OSB), Plywood

Such surfaces CANNOT BE PLASTERED! They are initially flat and must be mounted level and flat, so there is no technology for plastering OSB and plywood. Large differences can be smoothed out with special compounds by first sanding the surface and gluing all the seams with sickle tape. Then the entire surface is covered with reinforcing fiberglass mesh, but only then can large differences be leveled with specially designed mixtures.

Whitewash

Is it possible to plaster over whitewash? no, you can’t, you need to thoroughly wash off the whitewash, if possible, scratch it with a hatchet or hammer drill, then prime it 2 times, wait until the layers of soil dry.

Subtleties of working with gypsum composition, surface preparation

Working with gypsum plaster is easier than cement plaster. Gypsum mortar has good elasticity and is applied to the wall easier and faster. The ambient temperature must not be lower than +5 °C and not higher than +30 °C.

The gypsum solution should be used up within the first 30 minutes after its preparation, so you need to dilute the dry powder with water in such an amount that you can use at a time.

The surface to be covered with plaster must be pre-prepared. This means that it must be clean, smooth, and free of deep cracks, sagging mortar, and remnants of the previous coating. All staples, nails, bolts, hooks and other protruding elements should be removed. If some metal parts cannot be removed, they must be treated with an anti-corrosion coating. It is better to pre-cover too deep depressions and cracks with cement plaster or putty . Before starting plastering work, it is advisable to cover the base with a layer of primer.

Surfaces with a porous structure and good hygroscopicity must be especially carefully primed, applying the composition several times. Such surfaces include: brick, cinder blocks, foam concrete, aerated concrete, cement-lime plaster.

How to prepare the solution

And so, knead. First, clean water is poured into the bottom of the trough or bucket, a different amount for each type. Gypsum plaster is mixed exactly as it is written on the package, usually this proportion is 2:3 (water-plaster). The technical characteristics of the VOLMA mixture indicate that 18-19 liters of clean tap water will be required per 30 kg of dry composition. For ease of work, we make a medium-thick batch so that it fits well on a spatula, but does not drip. Wait 2-3 minutes and mix again. Now the solution is ready for use.

Under no circumstances should you add water to the solution after mixing. It is allowed to add a little dry mixture if the solution is very liquid, but do not add water if it is thick. It is allowed to stir once if the solution begins to thicken, but you do not have time to work it out.

For cement plaster you need approximately 1:5. The technical specifications for the LUX dry mixture indicate that 5-5.5 liters of water will be required per 25 kg bag. and during the kneading process, add either a little water or a little loose mixture so that the solution is convenient to work with (not too liquid and not too thick). It all depends on the brand and manufacturer; different amounts of plasticizers and cement in the solution require different amounts of water. After kneading, wait 5 minutes and mix again. Ready for use, all that remains is to figure out how to plaster the walls, but more on that later.

You need to add a little less water to lime plaster and gradually, it has strange properties when mixed, it can become very liquid if you stir for a long time, so the main thing is to maintain the proportions for preparing the solution (lime-cement) 1:5, and add water after the fact and little by little. Sometimes the lime is frozen or already damp, so we regulate the amount of water ourselves. I also recommend adding a little liquid soap or dishwashing detergent (literally a couple of drops) to each batch; the soap will act as a plasticizer and will prevent the solution from squeezing out water. The solution will dry evenly, and the smell will be pleasant.

Preparation of plaster

After preparing the walls for applying plaster, you can proceed to preparing the solution.

In a hardware store for plastering walls with your own hands, there is a large selection of ready-made plaster mixtures for different surfaces and on different bases.

This greatly simplifies the preparation, since you do not need to calculate the proportions of the various ingredients, but simply dilute the finished mixture with water in accordance with the instructions on the package.

To prepare the plaster we will need:

1. clean container (bucket or trough);
2. construction mixer or drill with a special attachment for stirring;
3. pure water.

Pour water into the container. While stirring with a mixer, add the dry mixture, the proportions are indicated on the package.

Mix everything well until smooth and let it brew for 3-5 minutes, then mix again.

The amount of finished plaster should be enough for 20-30 minutes of work, then it will begin to set.

Cement plaster

To prepare cement mortar for plastering walls, you need to mix 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Then, constantly stirring, add water (approximately: 5-6 liters of water per 25 kg of dry mixture).

The consistency of the finished solution should be like thick sour cream.

Leave for 5 minutes and stir again.

Calculate the amount of prepared solution for 1 hour of work. After an hour, cement-based plaster begins to lose its plasticity and adheres poorly to the working surface.

Advantages of cement plaster:

• high strength;
• greatest durability;
• suitable for rooms with high humidity;
• Suitable for outdoor use, basements and garages.

Flaws:

It is imperative to apply finishing putty to the top of cement-based plaster.

Gypsum plaster

Gypsum-based solutions are only suitable for indoor finishing. They have high ductility and are excellent for concrete surfaces.

Preparation: gypsum is poured into a container with water with constant stirring, milk of lime is added and everything is thoroughly mixed.

Due to its increased plasticity, gypsum plaster is easily applied to any surface, even a beginner can handle it.

It has a very fine structure and does not require finishing putty.

Convenient to use in corners and on the ceiling.

Cannot be used in damp areas.

Plastering technology, stages of wall plastering

If we managed to install the beacons and it turned out well, then the rest is a matter of skill. And so, what we have, and we have a well-prepared wall with exposed beacon profiles. You could call this chapter “aligning with beacons.” Mix the solution, I wrote about this above. Here's a quick tutorial for DIY plastering.

Application and plastering technology:

Finally, talk about how to plaster walls with your own hands. Let's start in order.

1. Spread a thin layer of mortar on the wall
2. Apply the plaster mixture onto the wall using a trowel (trowel) evenly without gaps. We start working from the bottom up. We sketch it so that the solution extends beyond the plane of the beacons
3. We tighten the solution from bottom to top with the rule (not in one movement, but smoothly moving left and right at a low frequency), we don’t put pressure on the rule, we just touch the beacon profiles and move it along the vector upward.
4. We send the removed plaster higher up the wall or back into the trough.
5. After the wall has been covered and pulled together, all the fallen mixture and debris have been removed, we wait for everything to dry.
6. We tear out the beacons, seal the resulting grooves, wait for them to dry
7. Wet the wall with water (using a roller)
8. Apply a thin layer of plaster with a 35cm trowel (the solution is a little thinner than it was)
9. We tighten the rule in different directions, with priority diagonally and vertically, remove as much of the applied composition as possible, but do not put too much pressure on the rule so as not to deform it.
10. If the finish is gypsum, then we simply remove the excess well (pulling it in all directions) and wait for it to dry, after which we go through with a spatula and remove excess drops and sagging
11. If we are working with cement, then while this layer is still a little damp, moisten it with water and rub it with a polyurethane grater,
12. If it is lime plaster, then it is not spread on first, but immediately thrown on. can be removed as a rule and after removing the beacons it is advisable to re-tighten the cement mixture (in a thin layer). And grind everything using cement technology.

Do-it-yourself finishing plaster of walls, grinding walls

Cement plaster is ground with a special grater for grinding. Graters are made of foam, polyurethane and felt. The first two leave the same rough circular effect. Felt has a more pleasant sand effect (if you need to prepare it for painting). Finish plaster involves grinding. This grinding of the wall is carried out until the surface has an acceptable, neat appearance.

Plaster reinforcement

Do you need mesh for reinforcement? the surface must be reinforced with large layers, starting from 2 cm. It is reinforced with a special mesh:

1. polymer mesh
2. galvanized mesh
3. metal grid
4. nylon mesh
5. fiberglass mesh

I would like to point out the fiberglass mesh; it is more convenient for it to reinforce small layers of 2-3 cm. It can be reinforced like a plaster mortar, making sure that it is in the center of the layer. Or you can use cement glue for reinforcing mesh, which is also not a bad option. After reinforcement, you can apply the solution another 2 cm.

If the layers are large, then a galvanized mesh (mounting mesh) is stuffed and secured with dowels and plastic washers so that they do not rust. After filling the reinforcing material, a layer of liquid plaster should be thrown over the mesh so that the solution penetrates and envelops the reinforcing material; after drying, you can continue to cast the main layer. The maximum thickness of the solution layer with galvanized mesh reinforcement is approximately 5-6 cm. The thickness of the mesh should not exceed the standards indicated on the packaging.

Plastering corners

At the stage of setting up the beacons, the outer corners are being set, I recommend immediately installing perforated painting ones (the main thing is to buy hard ones). I will tell you the detailed technology for setting the corners in another article.

External corners should be used as an additional beacon, and it should be aligned with the rest of the beacon profiles. We form the internal corner using the rule during the alignment of adjacent walls. The main thing is that the edge of the rule is not blunt, but cuts through the corner until it is sharp. Next, the angle is formed at the grinding stage (if it is a cement composition). To make even corners you need a polyurethane float and it should not be blunt, but with a good right angle, you can even make the angle sharper (it can be sharpened with sandpaper). If you have an even angle, then the plaster of the walls looks smoother, even if the plane is a helicopter.

How to repair a crack with plaster

As easy as shelling pears, let's start by preparing the crack. Use a spatula or trowel to open up the crack; if it’s deep, you can use a hatchet to open it up. We remove dust from the crack and prime it. After complete drying, coat well with the solution. When the solution dries, it will shrink, so you can re-spread it with a thin layer and rub it with a polyurethane grater.

Step-by-step instructions for plastering walls using beacons

Before talking about the stages of work, it is important to note that working alone, although possible, requires a lot of effort. This is due to the labor costs required to mix the solution.

Therefore, the ideal condition is to have an assistant who will mix this solution.

Preparing walls for plastering

Preparing the premises begins with its complete emptying. All wires must be insulated to avoid moisture penetration. The next step will be to clean the walls down to the base from dust or other finishing materials if plastering takes place in an already inhabited house.

After cleaning from dust and beating, the walls are primed. For brick walls, a regular water-based primer is suitable, which increases the adhesion of the mortar to the wall. For smooth concrete walls, a primer with the addition of quartz sand is suitable - concrete contact, which creates a rough structure on the wall surface that is favorable for adhesion to the plaster.

After the room and the necessary tools for plastering have been prepared, you can begin work, which is divided into several stages.

Preparation for leveling - how to correctly set beacons for plastering walls

The beacons act as guides, greatly facilitating the work of leveling the plaster mixture as a rule, and also allow you to make the wall perfectly flat due to preliminary verified installation. Nowadays, the most common use is a special beacon profile, which can be metal or plastic, but several decades ago wooden blocks coped with this task perfectly.

Below is the procedure for installing beacons using a laser level. This method is the simplest and most advanced today.

A plumb line or level is used to check the verticality of the wall in order to assess the required thickness of the plaster layer. If the wall is fairly flat, you will need a standard layer about 2 centimeters thick. The laser level is adjusted in such a way that the plane it creates is at a distance of 2-3 centimeters from the wall, that is, at the distance of the required thickness of the plaster layer. Markings are made along the entire width of the wall at a distance of 1.2-1.5 meters for the installation of beacons

It is important to know that the distance between the beacons should be slightly less than the length of your rule - a tool for leveling the mixture along the wall. It is also necessary to retreat 30-50 centimeters from the corners of the walls. After this, several piles of quick-drying mixture (for example, alabaster) are placed on the marked places along the entire height of the wall

Their thickness should protrude slightly beyond the plane constructed by the level. Next, until the mixture dries, the beacon profile is sunk into it, and this is done so that the entire surface of the profile barely touches the laser plane along its entire length. This guarantees a completely level installation.

Preparation of mortar for plastering walls

For each type of plaster mixture, its own standards for dilution with water are established and written on the bags, so there is no point in dwelling on this in detail. There are two important points to talk about here.

Firstly, this is the consistency of the solution. Plaster for application to walls should have the consistency of thick sour cream. This can only be achieved through practice. The convenience and ease of performing the work will depend on how well the consistency of the solution is selected. The liquid solution will gradually drain from the wall, and an excessively thick mixture will be difficult to distribute along the wall and will tend to dry out quickly.

The second important point is the lifetime of the solution. It is also indicated on the packaging and is different for each type of plaster. This parameter should be used as a guide to understand how long it will take you to apply the mixture to the wall and distribute it. To do this, you need to start mixing with small volumes in order to prevent the plaster from hardening in the container.

Gypsum plaster without putty for wallpaper

There is a way to prepare gypsum plaster for wallpaper without using 3 layers of putty, but this requires practice. Now I'll tell you everything:

1. pour water, mix the solution, let it sit for 2-3 minutes, mix well.
2. beacons are on display
3. plastering
4. leave a little solution in the bucket
5. wait 30 minutes
6. remove the beacons, seal the grooves with the remaining solution
7. wait 15 minutes
8. we draw the entire wall with a trapezoidal rule
9. after another 15-20 minutes, moisten the surface with water and rub with a sponge grater (in a circular motion)
10. wait until the surface becomes matte
11. smooth everything with a 35cm hard spatula

The entire surface is ready for wallpaper, a little less effort was spent than on putty and time was saved. But personally, I support the option with putty; it turns out to be of better quality, in my opinion.

Applying plaster to external walls

Plastering the facade is a long-known way to protect the main structure from the effects of negative factors. During production, synthetic components are added to the composition, which improve the properties of the plaster.

The main advantages of this finish:

1. Fire safety. Plaster will protect any base from fire.
2. Duration of operation. Some manufacturers provide a warranty of 20–25 years.
3. Availability - the price of the compositions is affordable, so almost everyone can purchase them.
4. Sound insulation – a thick layer eliminates the penetration of extraneous noise into the premises.
5. Versatility - can be applied to different substrates (brick, aerated concrete, foam plastic, penoplex and wooden walls).
6. Additional components reduce the weight of the finish, so it does not create additional load on the main structure.
7. Resistance to temperature changes.

Plaster without beacons

If the evenness of the walls, their level and the error of unevenness are not important to you, then you can plaster the wall without beacons. This method will take you twice as long as with beacons. This technology does not bring anything good in the future, especially high-quality, leveled walls. If you don’t have the necessary skill, then it’s better not to try it, but for those who don’t see any other options, I’ll tell you about this method. It is not possible to teach in words how to properly plaster walls without beacons. You need to understand very well the curvature of the plane and what you are doing. In other words, everything is done by eye:

1. Apply with a trowel (if a small layer)
2. If it’s large, then we sketch it with a trowel (trowel)
3. We tighten the rule from bottom to top horizontally, then vertically
4. After drying, you can comb out anything crooked with a metal rule.
5. If there are a lot of holes, then apply the solution and pull it again in different directions.
6. Then rub with a plastic or polyurethane grater.

Plaster reinforcement

Mineral plaster compositions do not have elasticity, and therefore, like natural stone materials, they can crack at the slightest movement of the base and form cracks during the hardening process, for example, if the plaster solutions are greasy. In order to reduce crack formation and their opening, the plaster is reinforced.

The same is done when repairing large cracks. The use of reinforcement increases the strength of the finish. Installation of nets is necessary in problem areas, for example, at the junction of bases made of different materials, for example, walls made of wood and concrete. Different characteristics of materials cause them to behave differently when temperature or humidity changes. Consequently, cracks will form in the joint area.

For reinforcement, meshes are used from:

• metal;
• plastic;
• fiberglass;

The choice of material and cell size of the reinforcing mesh depends on the main purpose of the reinforcement and the installation location. If powerful meshes are installed to reinforce facade finishing or create a plaster casing for insulation slabs, then for interior finishing, as well as where the plaster layer is small, plastic or fiberglass meshes are used.

Grids are a hidden structural element located in the body of the plaster closer to the surface. If the plaster coating is thick, two or more meshes are installed. When attaching the mesh to a wall or ceiling, a gap is left between the mesh and the base, which is filled with adhesive or plaster. This is done so that there are no air bubbles left around the mesh panel. The mesh must be recessed.

To secure the mesh to the walls, its panels are stretched, nailed or attached with self-tapping screws. Adjacent canvases are overlapped. It is important to tighten only so that there is no sagging, so that the wall does not turn out crooked. Do not overtighten.

If the mesh material can corrode during a chemical reaction, for example, with lime plaster, the mesh is protected by covering it with asphalt or coal tar varnish, oil paint, or laitance and drying.

How to plaster facade walls

Plastering the walls of the facade is not much different from the technology inside the room. The difference is in the size of the walls, and the uselessness of lighthouses. The corners of the corners of the building and the window corners act as beacons on the façade of the cottage. We will pull the plaster along these corners. I’ll answer the question right away, “which plaster is better for the facade?” We use exclusively cement, it can be special for facades, or it can be universal. You cannot plaster the façade with gypsum materials! I allow lime plaster to be used only on the base of a building, where there are large differences and high humidity and serious reinforcement is required (although there are different cases, and many where this is not required).

The surface of the facade must be prepared. if your house is insulated, then it should already be covered with reinforcing mesh. All façade corners must be exposed and everything must be primed and dried. Now we mix the cement composition of normal consistency (so that it spreads well), preferably working in cloudy weather so that the solution does not dry out.

Apply the solution to the façade in a thick layer using a trowel 40-50 cm long. We pull together everything that was applied in the corners with the rule, the longer, the better. If there are no corners nearby, we tighten the large holes and smooth them out with the bulk of the mortar. wait until it dries a little and rub it with a foam grater (40-50cm long).

If you are asking the question “is it possible to plaster in the cold in winter?”, then the answer is definitely no! Even if there is a special plaster for working in cold weather, I personally do not recommend working outside in winter; plastering at 0 degrees is also impossible. after thawing, everything may fall off and lose its properties. You can plaster after +5 degrees, at least that’s what it says on the bags. But at night the temperature can drop lower, so do not take risks, but carry out work in good weather. Do not plaster in direct sunlight.

Required tools and materials

List of what will be needed for plastering:

1. for preparing the solution - containers, mixer, mortar mixer;
2. for application - spatulas (in simple terms - spatula), ladle, trowel, trowel, rollers, brushes;
3. for stretching, leveling - grater, grater, rule;
4. for priming, forming a relief pattern, painting: rollers, brushes, brushes, sponges, stencils, other improvised means;
5. for measuring, marking, installing beacons - level, plumb line, tape measure, masking tape, cord;
6. for painting – brushes, sponge, rollers, spray bottle;
7. for protection – glasses, respirator, gloves, work clothes

Materials you will need:

• components of plaster composition, SS or ready-made compositions;
• water;
• primer;
• shingles;
• lighthouses;
• reinforcing mesh;
• fastening parts - dowels, screws, nails;

Required material for plastering

How to plaster bathroom walls

Plastering the walls in the bathroom should be done exclusively with cement mortar; no need to bother with lime, etc. “Can gypsum plaster be used in a bathroom?” — Gypsum cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. Therefore, we take any cement plaster and perform all the same operations that were described in the chapter on “how to plaster walls using beacons?” There are certain nuances in the bathroom if you plaster under good tiles and make good repairs.

Firstly, with high-quality repairs under the tiles, it is necessary to plaster and do this in a beacon manner. It is necessary to respect the geometry of the room, especially where the bathtub or shower will be located. To do this, you will need a large square (corner) and the beacons need to be set so that each corner is 90 degrees. There are often a lot of disputes and questions about this, because it is when the angles are set at 90 degrees that large layers appear. There is only one way out - plaster!

Don’t skimp on the geometry of the room, the tiles are square, they will show all the errors in the bathroom. It is unlikely that you will want to spend a lot of money on tiles and a bathtub, but by saving on plaster, you will end up with unsightly wedge-shaped tile cuts and huge gaps between the wall and the bathtub. I hope I answered the question of how to plaster a bathroom wall under tiles, etc.

Plastering corners

The words “husks” and “usenki” will not say anything to an ignorant person. Meanwhile, these are professional terms for plasterers, denoting internal and external corners, respectively. The technique for plastering them differs from applying plaster to walls.

The main techniques used by plasterers:

• using a profile corner;
• with lighthouses;
• with a counter-piece (perforated corner with an aluminum base));
• with serpyanka (ribbon mesh made of fiberglass or synthetics with an adhesive layer);
• without a contrarian.

Counter-shuls can be used to produce husks and usenki.

Step-by-step technology for making an angle using a contra-sharp:

1. Cut the perforated corners to the required length.
2. A contact solution is applied to the corner in a thick layer (the mixture is stretched along the entire length along the inner corner).
3. The corner is placed against the corner, pressed most tightly in the most “protruding” place, then using the rule, the counter-shoulder is pressed so that it stands strictly vertical (check with a level or plumb line).
4. The excess mixture released during installation is removed with a spatula. After this, the mixture is allowed to harden.
5. After installation, the corner is aligned with the wall using a test. The corner shelves end up inside the plaster mortar. The corner counter protects the protruding corner from damage.

Applying contact solution

Installing the corner Removing excess mortar

Aligning the corner with the wall
Making an external corner along a profile corner:

1. Cut the profile corners to the required length;
2. Beacons are installed on adjacent walls (the corner is plastered before work on the wall is completed);
3. A contact solution is applied to the corner in a thick layer (the mixture is stretched along the entire length along the inner corner).
4. Next (thicker) soil is applied on both sides from the corner to the nearest beacons.
5. The corner is placed against the corner, the mesh is pressed against the mixture, using the rules, the solution is leveled along the beacons on one, then on the second wall.
6. The excess mixture removed by the rule with a spatula is added to where it is missing.
7. The profile corner and the mesh are inside the plaster layer.

Plaster for different types of finishing: tiles, wallpaper, putty, painting

Any leveling of walls with plaster begins with surface preparation. Here I will tell you the main nuances of preparation for different finishes.

Plaster under tiles

I talked about the bathroom, but the same situation awaits us in the kitchen, when leveling the work area under the tiles. I emphasize once again, do not skimp on the amount of solution, while maintaining angles of 90 degrees, especially in bathrooms and the kitchen. In the kitchen, it is also advisable to plaster with cement mortar according to the standards. Practice shows that cement-based glue adheres better to cement plaster than to gypsum plaster; in general, gypsum and cement mixtures have poor contact and delaminate (I repeat). Practice shows that the work area in the kitchen under the tiles can be plastered, for example, with rotband knauf, or VOLMA, nothing has fallen off or cracked over the years. But still, high humidity can lead to the spread of mold behind the sink. the choice is yours. Before laying the tiles, prime the surface well.

Plaster for wallpaper

A common question that arises among people who have started a renovation is “how to plaster under wallpaper?” The answer is simple, exactly the same as any other wall for any other type of decoration. Plastering is a rough leveling of the surface, and preparation for finishing is already a function of putty. We putty 3 times, grind and voila, the wall is ready for wallpaper. Before gluing the wallpaper, prime the surface well. If you need to plaster the walls before painting after wallpapering, or more precisely if the wallpaper will be painted, then special attention should be paid to the junction with the ceiling. The smoother the junction, the neater the painting will look.

Plaster for painting

And so, how to prepare and plaster for painting. Plastering walls for painting is not a very good solution, of course, unless you mean subsequent filling of the surface. Although, in repairs with brick restoration, this goes well. It is enough to grind the cement with either a polyurethane grater or a foam float (for a rough effect). Or you can grind it with a felt grater for a finer grinding texture. The most acceptable option for grinding for painting is a balcony and a loggia, where it would come in handy. Plaster can be prepared both for wallpaper and painted. In my opinion, plastered walls should be puttied before painting.

If you need high-quality painting, then here are all the stages of preparing a wall for painting - the order of work:

1. plastering
2. 2 layers of putty
3. grind
4. primer
5. glue cobwebs or fiberglass mesh
6. 3 times finishing putty
7. rub with fine sandpaper
8. ready))

Characteristics of plastering walls

Based on what raw materials the walls are made of for plastering, where and in what place they are located, different plaster materials and different application methods are used. And to make a solution for plastering walls with your own hands, proportions are important.

Brick wall

• A brick wall is made with your own hands from plaster using grout, its base is cement. If construction work is carried out outside a building or house, or there is high air humidity, lime can be added to such a solution for greater plasticity. If questions arise during the work, then a video that can be found on the Internet will help you on how to plaster walls with cement mortar with your own hands.
• a layer of mortar no more than 30 mm thick is placed on the wall itself. If it is necessary to make the layer larger, then a netting mesh is attached, which will increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure, hold the mixture on the wall, and prevent it from cracking.
• In order to obtain a cement-sand composition, the proportion must be observed - 1 part cement and 3 parts river sand. Mix everything with a small amount of water, make a thick and soft putty.
• and for it to be cement-lime, you will need 1 part cement, 2 lime, 6 parts river sand. Initially, sand needs to be mixed with cement powder, then diluted lime is added there and mixed until thick and homogeneous.

Plastering walls

Concrete wall

• If the concrete surface is relatively smooth, then to obtain the desired roughness it will be enough to add quartz inclusions to the primer. It is also recommended to use gypsum powder, which will provide the necessary adhesion of the mixture to the surface. Gypsum is quickly diluted with water, then lime is added, and everything is mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
• when the surface does not need preparation, then it can be worked with ordinary gypsum or cement plaster compositions, having previously treated it with a primer, for example, from Volma.

Aerated concrete wall

• Before plastering, it is recommended to prepare such a gas block by treating the block surfaces with a special deep-action impregnation and attaching a special fiberglass mesh to the wall. In practice, foam block and expanded clay block walls are often used
• such a wall is sufficiently resistant to both cement and gypsum mixtures. In the future, it will be possible to use polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene for insulation.

How the finishing work will be done in the future depends on how the correct composition is chosen to level and plaster the surface, to achieve the desired connection of the mortar with the wall. You can buy ready-made mixtures at an affordable price, including a drawing, diagram and detailed instructions for use. Their cost varies; they can cost both a budget and a more expensive option.

Advice: Recently, construction mixtures from KNAUF have been widely used, namely rotband gypsum plaster and rotband dry mix.

Mechanized plaster - pros and cons

A few words about mechanized plaster. Mechanized plastering of walls involves the use of all kinds of equipment. This article is about do-it-yourself plastering, so I won’t write much about it. There are many types of equipment: a plastering station, a powerful compressor that uses a special gun, or special plastering installations on guides.

Of course, there are many advantages to using technology, such as speed and enormous output. But the disadvantages are that if you plaster apartments, then this is not such a huge amount of work in which you can use a plastering station. It takes longer to wash it than to plaster the apartment. A compressor with a special gun (hopper) is a more suitable option for apartments and small cottages. But you still have to mix the solution manually and tighten it accordingly. One of the advantages is the speed of application, but you still have to sweat. There is also such a device as a “manual plastering machine,” but that’s a completely different story, which is used in decorative coatings. In general, the thing is quite funny, I wouldn’t mess with it.

So we figured out how to properly plaster walls in theory, everything else will come with practice. Please ask all questions in the comments.

How to make high-quality plaster on brick walls in a new building: step-by-step instructions

When moving into a new house, almost every new resident has to face the problem of leveling the walls. How to do this yourself?

Procedure for rough processing

For work it is better to use cement-sand plaster.
First you need to clean the surface to be treated with a wire brush, deepen the masonry seams, and remove dust. To reduce the absorption of bricks and improve adhesion, coat the wall with a deep penetration primer. To prevent cracks from forming when the house shrinks, you need to use a reinforcing mesh made of plastic. It can be laid in two ways:

1. Attach with hooks that are driven into the masonry seams.
2. Spray the solution onto the wall and press the mesh into it.

Then set the beacons and mix the solution. For the first layer, the solution should resemble liquid sour cream in consistency; for the second application, mix a thicker one.

1st layer: moisten the wall with water, spray a 5mm solution, lightly level it. Let dry.

2nd layer: throw the mixture onto the wall. Pressing the rule against the beacons and moving from bottom to top, level the surface. Add solution to the resulting voids and level again. Smooth with a trowel.

A simple way to apply plaster to cracks

Sealing cracks in a brick wall can be done using gypsum mortar in several stages:

1. Clean the crack from dust and debris, wash the edges with a damp sponge.
2. Dilute the gypsum mixture.
3. Using a spatula, fill the space with the solution.
4. After drying, smooth out any uneven surfaces with sandpaper.

Rules for placing beacons

For beginners, it is better to carry out plastering work using beacons.

• Drive in a dowel in the upper left corner of the wall, but not all the way: between the head and the wall there should be a distance equal to the thickness of the planned layer of plaster.
• Using a plumb line, set the diagonal and drive in the second dowel at the bottom.
• Repeat the procedure in the right corner of the same wall.
• Pull the threads between the top, bottom, and then the opposite bottom and top dowels.
• Place the thick solution along the entire length of the proposed lighthouse.
• Using a rule and a level, press the beacon into the solution 1 mm below the thread level.
• Mount the remaining beacons.

How to carry out work on foam concrete

Plastering foam blocks occurs in the following order:

• Clean walls and joints with a wire brush.
• Coat with a primer for foam blocks.
• Knead the mixture, strictly following the recipe.
• Starting from the bottom, apply the first layer of plaster.
• Let it dry slightly, press in the mesh for reinforcement and secure with dowels.
• Apply the next layer of plaster and leave until completely dry.
• Cover with a thin finishing layer.

Plastering the walls in an apartment on your own is a completely doable task even for people who have no experience in construction. The main thing is to have the desire, and you can learn anything.

Plaster with cement-sand mixture

Plastering walls with cement mortar requires certain skills

To perform the work, you need to prepare the following tool:

• 2 m rule;
• level;
• container for mixing the solution;
• 2 buckets;
• plaster ladle;
• Master OK;
• foam grater.

Filler for cement mixture

The plaster mixture consists of several important components, which are presented in the following table:

The “fatness” of the components is an important aspect of the choice of fillers. Depending on the deposit, the fat content of lime and clay varies. This directly affects viscosity and adhesion.

Subtleties of work

It is important to complete all the preparatory steps. At the same time, remember that you won’t be able to get by with a simple stool. For working at heights it will be convenient to use small scaffolding. You can make them yourself or simply rent them.

As with gypsum plaster, the wall must first be prepared. All exfoliated elements are removed from it, and the surface must be primed. If cracks are found, they should be covered first, especially when it comes to cracks larger than 2 cm. If the wall is concrete, then notches must be made. This will increase the quality of setting.

Video

Applying the first layer

The first layer of plaster may have a small thickness

So, before applying the first layer, the wall must be moistened with water. Next, the prepared mixture is thrown onto the treated area with a construction bucket or trowel. For ease of use, it is recommended to spread the solution over no more than 1 m2. After this, take a construction float and level the entire plane with it. Thus, the layer can reach 7 mm.

For grouting, it is best to use a 50 cm long trowel. Thanks to this, you can evenly distribute the layer of mortar over the wall. Working with a grater is not easy. It needs to be moved from side to side. For example, movements can be from bottom to top, and vice versa. You won’t be able to achieve a perfectly flat and smooth surface in one go, so you shouldn’t linger long on a specific area.

Applying a second layer

The second layer of solution is applied only when the first one has already dried. First, take a long rule and run it along the wall, you will be able to detect all the irregularities and sagging. The sharp side of the rule removes all sagging from the surface.

You can apply a second layer. Now the plaster needs to be smoothed better. In this case, the solution should no longer be poured on, but should be carefully smoothed with a grater. When you have processed the entire wall in this way, you can check for evenness by applying a rule. Under it you can see possible depressions or swells that need to be smoothed out. If there are lumps, they should be removed with a grater or the same rule. If there are depressions, then the solution should be added to the required thickness. After all these steps, the wall surface should be practically free of defects.

At the end of the plaster it is necessary to prepare the wall for grouting.

The third layer is the final one

The last layer of plaster should be the thinnest. To do this, the solution should be made quite liquid. It is applied to the wall using a ladle from top to bottom. After applying it with a trowel in a circular motion, it should be leveled, figuratively speaking, by rubbing it into the surface. As a result of these actions, the processed plane will be smooth.

Upon completion, the result is checked for defects. To do this, a rule is traditionally applied to the wall. Of course, with this method the alignment will be relative.

The walls must be grouted

So, you've learned how to level walls without using beacons. Although this work requires effort, you can save big as a result. Moreover, in this way you can do the plaster yourself in the utility rooms, without involving craftsmen. If you know another technology and have practical experience in this matter, then share your comments at the end of this article.

Rotband plaster - features and technology of its application

The KNAUF Rotband plaster mixture is a product from a German manufacturer. In comparison with similar compositions, Rotband has a high cost, however, it is completely justified. It is considered the best in strength, quality and practicality.

Advantages of Rotband

Rotband plaster should be mixed with a construction mixer to obtain a homogeneous mass.

In the table above we presented the main technical characteristics of this mixture. Now let's look at its positive aspects, which make it the best among all competitors:

• You can level walls up to 50 mm thick at a time.
• During the drying process, cracks and shrinkage are not observed.
• The dried surface is quite smooth, which means it does not need to be treated with an additional finishing layer.
• During the drying process, there is no sudden loss of moisture, which promotes gradual and uniform hardening.
• Unlike other gypsum plaster mixtures, the setting period after mixing is long.
• Features high adhesion.
• Unlike cement compositions, significantly lower consumption.
• “Rotband” is characterized by vapor permeability, due to which the walls “breathe” and a comfortable microclimate is created in the room.
• The mixture contains no harmful compounds that negatively affect human health.

Plus, it’s worth adding that the total weight of the Rotband plaster gypsum mixture does not put a strong load on the surface being treated. With a little experience, you can level the walls even in one pass. If it is necessary to apply a thick layer, a fiberglass mesh is additionally used to prevent cracking.

Video

Technology of plastering with gypsum mixture

First of all, you need to check the wall for evenness.

You should first prepare the necessary building material and tools:

• wide and narrow spatulas;
• rule;
• plaster mixture;
• cold water;
• drill;
• construction mixer;
• reinforcing mesh;
• mixing container.

All work on applying gypsum mixture without beacons consists of several stages:

1. Preparation.
2. Mixing the solution.
3. Application.

Let's consider all these stages in sequence:

How a beginner can plaster walls with his own hands: video instructions

It is first necessary to carry out preparatory work aimed at cleaning the surface of various types of contaminants and removing old finishing materials. This stage is important because it determines how well the plaster will hold up in the future.

In order to ensure reliable adhesion, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the wall, removing anything that may be between its base and the plaster. The cleaning method is selected taking into account the characteristics of the material from which the wall is made. All cracks identified during the preparatory stage must be eliminated in order to prevent cracking of the plaster in the future.

Preparing the wall for applying the plaster mixture

There are various ways to repair cracks in a wall, each of which is suitable for a particular size of damage. Small cracks that extend deep into the wall will require widening to reach the narrowest part.

Having found its base, cleaning is carried out in order to remove dust and dirt. Then, using a brush, apply a generous amount of primer. When everything is completely dry, the crack can be repaired using putty made with gypsum or cement. Using a spatula, you need to try to level the “patch” with the wall surface as best as possible.

A shallow narrow crack can easily be sealed with sealant or silicone compound. Usually, the tube comes with a special nozzle with a thin spout, which allows you to easily carry out such operations by directing it deep into the crack.

If you need to eliminate really extensive damage, then you can use polyurethane foam for this purpose. Typically one coat of primer is applied and then the space is filled.

Helpful advice! If during work excess foam protrudes above the level of the wall, it can be easily removed by cutting it off with a sharp knife.

How to plaster a brick wall: surface preparation features

The best way to plaster brick walls inside a house is a controversial issue. However, regardless of the choice, a high-quality surface preparation procedure must be carried out.

Plastering a brick wall using beacons

Often you have to deal with the fact that there is already a layer of old plaster on the surface of a brick wall. In this case, it is necessary to get rid of it efficiently. To do this, you can use water and a sponge, wetting the surface several times and waiting until the water is absorbed. This procedure will make the task much easier.

After this, using a spatula, the thickness of the working surface of which is at least 1.5-2 mm, and also a hammer, the old plaster is knocked off. To do this carefully and at the same time effectively, you first need to carefully tap one of the sections of the wall with a hammer. As a result of this procedure, cracks will appear, which will allow the coating to be picked up with a spatula. If necessary, you can also tap the handle of the spatula with a hammer to facilitate the process of removing the old coating.

Related article:

Why do you need a mesh for plastering facade walls? Main types of mesh, principles of selection, areas of application, methods of plastering, application options, tips and tricks.

After removing a layer of old plaster, you need to walk over the surface with an iron brush or sanding machine. After this, you should start deepening the seams between the bricks. This will ensure better adhesion between the plaster and the wall. It will be enough to deepen them by 5-7 mm.

The final stage of preparing a brick wall is cleaning the surface with a soft brush and a damp cloth. Then all that remains is to apply a layer of deep penetration primer. Moreover, it is better to do this in two layers, first letting the first layer dry before applying the second.

Before applying plaster to a brick wall, it must be primed

Features of preparing the surface of a concrete wall

Compared to a brick wall, a concrete wall is much easier to clean. However, due to the smoother texture, it will be more difficult to apply the plaster in such a way that it sticks.

In order to remove a layer of whitewash from a concrete surface, you need to thoroughly moisten the sponge with water and wipe the wall. Then, using a wire brush, remove the unnecessary layer and thoroughly wipe the surface again.

Another way is to apply a thick layer of paste over the whitewash. After complete drying, using a regular spatula, the entire top layer can be easily cleaned.

Having completed cleaning, you can proceed to applying shallow notches on the surface. This measure will ensure traction. Despite the fact that applying them will require a lot of effort and time, this process is very important and determines the result of the work, so this stage should not be neglected.

Applying plaster to chain-link mesh

Some prefer to use a simpler method that does not require notching - priming and adding quartz sand, followed by plastering the walls with cement-sand mortar. Due to the fine fraction, it is held on the surface, creating adhesion between the plaster and the wall. However, this method is not always effective, and to ensure its effectiveness, it is recommended to first test it on a small section of the wall.

Helpful advice! A simple test will allow you to determine how effective quartz sand will be: a primer with sand is applied to the surface and left until completely dry. Then you need to run your hand along the wall. If the sand begins to crumble when touched, then you will have to worry about creating notches on the surface.

Features of preparing a wooden surface

The process of cleaning a wooden surface is the simplest of all the tasks considered. In this case, it is enough to knock on the wall with a hammer, and the plaster will simply crumble onto the floor. It is recommended to lay down plastic film in advance to avoid contamination and facilitate the cleaning process.

Preparing a wooden wall before plastering

To fix the plaster on a wooden surface, you will need to fill special wooden slats. People call them shingles. Using ordinary nails, they are driven all over the wall, oriented diagonally. This allows you to create not only an excellent basis for laying finishing material, but also at the same time solves the problem of the need to create beacons, which are required to level the surface of the wall.

If, after removing a layer of old plaster, shingles are found underneath, it must be knocked down and a new one made. Wooden elements quickly become unusable, succumbing to rot, insects and the influence of time. In addition, old shingles often serve as a source of unpleasant odors.

It is important not to forget about the need to apply protection to all wooden surfaces and elements. An antiseptic is necessary to prevent the appearance of fungi, mold, and harmful insects in wood. The composition is applied to each element and to the wall before the shingles are installed, and then again after the installation is completed. This allows for the maximum level of protection.

Lime based plaster composition

There are cases when, instead of wooden slats, a metal mesh chain-link is used for sheathing. This is also an acceptable option, however, its thickness must be at least 3 mm, and fastening should not be carried out to the wall surface itself, but to slats specially prepared for this.

How to properly plaster walls with your own hands: video instructions for placing beacons

Since one of the main goals of plastering is to level the existing surface as much as possible, guidelines, otherwise called beacons, will be required. To understand how to plaster walls using beacons, you need to understand how and why they are placed. This is done using a building level in order to be able to make the surface as even as possible in the future.

Typically, metal guides are used for this purpose, fastened with gypsum mortar. This method is good because the plaster dries quickly and does not allow the profile to move, holding it in a given position. Such beacons should be placed at a distance of approximately 1.5 m from each other.

Drawing of room marking with beacons

Helpful advice! If the existing level is too short and its length is not enough, in order to check the evenness of the beacons, you can use a long block. It is placed against one of the guides until the solution is completely dry, and a level is applied to its center.

As an example, you can see the instructions on how to plaster walls with your own hands without beacons. The video will clearly demonstrate other surface leveling options.

Rules for applying plaster to the surface

Plastering the surface consists of three stages, in each of which a layer of mortar is applied. Each of them is different and is laid using a special technology that best suits its purpose. The first layer is the thickest. It is thrown onto the wall and actually serves as a rough draft, on top of which more even and smooth layers will be laid in the future.

The first layer is applied using a trowel or simply by hand. It is only important to remember that if the solution comes into contact with the skin, you must take care of protection in the form of rubber gloves. The thickness of the first layer depends on the base: for a brick or concrete wall 5 mm will be enough, but for a wooden wall you will need a layer of about 8-9 mm, taking into account the lathing.

A special mesh between the wall and the plaster layer ensures the best adhesion of the mixture to the wall surface

The second layer should be applied more carefully, but still it is not the finishing coat. It is applied using a wide spatula or trowel, bringing the solution to a dough-like consistency. The thickness of the middle layer should be about 7-8 mm.

The finishing layer is prepared with the addition of fine-grained sand, which does not contain large inclusions. The consistency of the solution should resemble sour cream in order to lie evenly and smooth out all the unevenness that remains after applying the first two layers.

For beginners in this matter, purchasing ready-made mixtures for each layer, which are available in any hardware store, will help eliminate the risk of error. Their compositions almost always promote good adhesion and provide a durable and reliable coating.

It is also worth first watching a video on how to plaster the corners of walls. Of course, it is easier to work with a flat surface, but leveling the corners may require some skill, especially considering how imperfect the initial data can be.

Methods for reinforcing corners before applying plaster

How to prepare a solution for plaster with your own hands

Despite the opportunity to save yourself the hassle and purchase ready-made compositions, many prefer to try to do everything themselves and prepare the plaster for each layer with their own hands. Let's look at a few of the most popular recipes that are widely used and have already gained trust:

1. A cement mortar in which 3 parts sand must be added to 1 part cement.
2. A lime-based solution in which 3 parts sand is added to 1 part lime.
3. Cement-lime: 5 parts sand, 1 part lime and 1 part cement.
4. Lime composition with the addition of gypsum: 1 part of dry gypsum is added to 3 parts of lime, mixed to a dough-like state.

Important! The resulting solution should be plastic and easily “spread” over the applied surface, but at the same time it should not flow down.

The finished plaster mixture should be plastic and easy to lay on the surface

Before you start mixing the mortar according to the chosen recipe, it is useful to know that the prepared amount should be used within an hour, since in the future the plaster tends to lose some of its qualities, for example, plasticity. In addition, such “expired” material does not adhere well to the surface.

Particular attention should be paid to a solution prepared with the addition of gypsum, since this component significantly reduces the shelf life of the plaster before application to the wall. This solution must be applied immediately, immediately after preparation. In addition, the drying time will be affected by the thickness of the layer: a thin layer will dry almost instantly.

In order to avoid mistakes and not spoil a portion of the finished mixture, you need to carefully study the instructions, and only after that proceed to adding water, since the setting and drying period may vary.

It is best to use the prepared mixture immediately, since over time its properties deteriorate due to drying

How to mix the solution yourself: rules and recommendations

To mix a high-quality mixture yourself, you must adhere to the following procedure:

• You need to pour water into the container intended for mixing the solution. Then, according to the instructions, pour 6-8 trowels of the finished mixture and mix everything thoroughly using a construction mixer;
• the rest of the mixture is added gradually and during thorough mixing, which avoids the formation of lumps and gives the plaster plasticity and uniformity;
• then it is advisable to wait 2-3 minutes and mix the solution again. At this stage, you can determine whether there is a need to add water or a dry mixture to make the plaster thicker or, conversely, more liquid.

Once again, it is worth noting that one batch should consist of such an amount of material that can be used here and now. The recommendation is as follows:

• for a solution containing gypsum, the shelf life is limited to 25-30 minutes;
• if a cement base was used, then this period will be 40-60 minutes.

The secret of a good plaster mixture is the correct proportions of all components

Wanting to give the surface a finished appearance, many people prefer to apply a layer of putty on top, which makes the surface perfectly smooth and serves as an excellent base for painting. The video on how to putty walls with your own hands tells in detail all the nuances of this process and allows you to effectively complete the finishing work of leveling the surface.