Finish the plinth inside - what is customary to use for cladding, what materials are used most often

Insulation

Laying the insulation on the outer part of the base goes 60-80 cm underground, that is, the heat-insulating material is applied to the foundation walls located underground.
To do this, a trench of the specified length and a width of 100 cm is dug along the entire facade. The bottom of the trench is equipped with a drainage system to eliminate the risk of the thermal insulation material getting wet under the influence of groundwater.

When finishing the façade wet, a layer of bitumen-based mastic or more modern liquid waterproofing is applied to the reinforced insulation. After this layer has dried, the cladding elements can be fixed.

When organizing a hanging system, heat-insulating material in sheets is hung on the waterproofed surface of the base. A windproof membrane is applied over the insulation, after which both materials are screwed to the wall at 2-3 points. Belleville bolts are used as fasteners. The mounted system does not involve digging a trench.

The choice of insulation and its thickness are determined by climatic conditions, the type of building and the cladding used. An available option is extruded polystyrene foam. It demonstrates high thermal insulation, moisture resistance, and is lightweight. Due to the flammability of the insulation, its use requires the use of non-combustible basement finishing.

When using thermal panels with a clinker surface, they usually do without additional insulation. And polystyrene, polyurethane or mineral wool insulation is attached under the tiles.

Types of decorative cladding

Modern materials make it possible to create an imitation of brickwork on a wooden wall, or vice versa - to transform a brick house into a wooden frame. For this, claddings such as siding made of different materials, wooden lining, block house, thermal panels, ceramic or stone tiles and others are used. It is necessary to find out in advance how each of the skins is attached and what it looks like in the end - this will largely determine which insulation system to choose for it.

Clinker thermal panels

Clinker thermal panels are one of the modern materials for insulation and decoration of facades.

House covered with clinker thermal panels

They have appeared on the construction market relatively recently, and have already gained wide popularity. This is not at all surprising, since they have many positive qualities.

One of the main advantages is that this material performs two functions at once: insulation and decorative cladding.
The panels perfectly imitate brickwork and are produced in a variety of colors, so they can be matched to any style and taste.
They give the surface absolute neatness and aesthetics.
This type of cladding is convenient and relatively easy to install on the wall.
Thermal panels can be used to cover any surface - wood or brick.
The light weight of the panels makes it possible to do without additional strengthening of the foundation of the old building.
Since the materials have a low percentage of water absorption, the façade can be washed from sludge with water under high pressure.
The tightness of the panels on the wall does not allow cold air to penetrate to the wall of the house.

Thermal panels have a polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam base onto which clinker tiles are pressed. The warm substrate increases the thermal insulation qualities of the panels by two to four times, and creates an optimal vapor-permeable microclimate for the walls, which allows you to preserve the material from which the house is built for a longer period.

The structure of the panels is a layer of insulation and decorative tiles “like brick”

Clinker tiles protect the insulation base from external factors such as wind, precipitation, and direct solar ultraviolet rays.
Clinker panels are very securely attached to the wall and can last 45-60 years without repair work, without losing their original appearance.
The panels are assembled into a single plane using existing locking joints (tongues and grooves), which ensures tight adhesion.

Installation of panels is quite simple and intuitive

Straight, wall thermal panels and corner elements for them are produced, which facilitate the task of decorating the corners of the building, making them absolutely neat, not different from the general appearance of the walls.

Thermal panels are equipped with the necessary additional profile elements

Thermal panels are reinforced with plastic guides that prevent deformation and mechanical stress of the facing material.

Installation of thermal panels

Before you begin installing the panels on the wall, it is necessary to inspect it for various bulges, significant depressions and chips, which can greatly impede quick installation. Therefore, it is necessary to bring the surface of the walls to a perfectly smooth state.

Inspection of walls before installation of thermal panels

When installing panels on surfaces that have large irregularities, for example, the walls of a log house, they are covered with a lathing made of wooden beams.

Installation of clinker thermal panels can be carried out directly on the walls or on the lathing

In this case, it is very important to correctly calculate the location of the sheathing elements so that the fastening of the panels is successful. Each panel to be secured must have at least three sheathing bars to create the required sheathing rigidity.

Dimensions of thermal panels, places of attachment to walls

The diagram clearly shows the places of fastening to the wall or sheathing and the dimensions of the panel itself and the protruding locking ridges.

How to finish the base: options for types of materials to finish the base of a house inexpensively

Whatever house is built, its entire structure is always based on a reliable foundation of one type or another. The importance of this structural element simply cannot be overestimated - it is it that takes on and distributes all the main weight loads. As a rule, the foundation always protrudes somewhat above the surface of the earth, forming the so-called basement part. And so the owner of the house inevitably faces the question - how to finish the base?

How to finish the base

There are many options for solving this problem. But first of all, it’s worth figuring out - is finishing the base really necessary?

The content of the article

1 Why is the base lined?2 Types of materials used for finishing the base2.1 Plastering and painting2.2 Finishing the base with natural stone2.3 Video: facing the base with sandstone2.4 Cladding with artificial stone2.5 Finishing the base with brick or “brick-like”2.6 Video: installation of base thermal panels2.7 Finishing with base siding2.8 Video: polymer base siding “under the stone”3 A necessary element for finishing the base is ebb and flow 3.1 Video: installation of metal ebb and flow on the base

Why is the base covered?

Many home owners consider finishing the basement only as a special design touch in the overall exterior design of the house. The desire to make your home as beautiful as possible in appearance is quite understandable and justified, but it turns out that decorativeness in this case, although important, is still secondary. The main purpose of the plinth cladding is still different:

Even such a seemingly indestructible element of a building as the foundation needs protection from external influences. The cladding minimizes the impact of precipitation, high humidity, temperature changes, and direct sunlight on the base material. The walls of the house at the basement level are most susceptible to contamination. The liquid dirt that falls on them always contains a lot of chemically aggressive substances that can cause erosion processes even in monolithic concrete. The base should also be protected from the development of forms of biological life on its surface - mold stains, fungal colonies, insect nests. If possible, it is necessary to provide for insulation of the basement of the building. At first glance, it’s a paradox: why insulate it if all the living spaces are located higher. However, this opinion is wrong:

— The base array itself becomes a very capacious cold accumulator, forming not even a “bridge”, but an entire “highway” for the penetration of low temperatures into the premises, from which even a conscientiously insulated floor of the first floor may not save. A significant part of the energy resources spent on heating will simply be wasted.

— The material from which the foundation is made, be it concrete, brick or stone, under the influence of low winter temperatures can freeze through, which will activate erosion processes and reduce its strength.

So, the conclusion is categorical - the base needs high-quality finishing for both operational and decorative reasons. What type of finish should I choose? This will depend on the design features of the building, the preferences of the homeowner, and his financial capabilities.

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the material on finishing a house with siding, and the step-by-step technology and description will help you decide on the choice and finishing technology.
In addition, on our portal we have posted detailed instructions for installing siding with insulation - here.

Types of materials used for finishing the base

Plastering and painting

One of the simplest finishing methods is to apply a layer of durable plaster to the surface of the base.

One of the simplest options is plastering the base

This finish will create a good sewn layer, characterized by high vapor permeability. The main advantage of this method is its low cost and availability of materials. Carrying out such work yourself or finding a master plasterer is usually not a big problem. And there are many options for adding decorativeness to such a base.

High-quality plastering and painting will give the base an accentuated neatness

Firstly, it can simply be painted with special durable facade paints. There is a wide range of shades on sale, and there is always the opportunity to choose the one most suitable for the intended exterior design of the building. Secondly, an excellent solution would be to apply a finishing layer of decorative plaster. A wide palette of colors and “rich” textures should satisfy any homeowner’s needs.

Variety of decorative plasters

But that's not all. If you show your imagination, you can give even a simply plastered surface a very original look.

Stone? No, this is a plastered base...

In the photograph the base appears to be trimmed with stone. In fact, each “cobblestone” is nothing more than a pile of ordinary concrete mortar, molded by hand directly on the surface of the base.

…the “cobblestones” of which are sculpted by hand...

To sculpt such “stones” you don’t need any special skill - the main thing is to make a high-quality dense solution. Everything else is the imagination and efforts of the home craftsman. After hardening, all that remains is to decorate with dyes - and the plastered base will become indistinguishable from a stone one.

...and tinted with paint

The disadvantages of the technology for finishing the base with plaster include the comparative fragility of the coating - you will have to constantly monitor the condition of the applied layer and timely repair or update damaged, cracked areas.

Finishing the base with natural stone

This type of finishing can certainly be called “elite”. A building with such a plinth always looks very advantageous, and the natural material has excellent performance characteristics and will last a very long time.

Base with natural stone cladding - looks very rich

For cladding, specially prepared stone slabs are used - slabs, usually 20 ÷ 30 mm thick, which can have either a regular geometric shape or uneven edges, which gives a special decorative effect.

Rectangular slabs of gray granite

The surface of the stone can also be chosen to suit your taste - from polished to mirror-like to rough chipped.

For all the beauty and practicality of this type of base finishing, it also has many disadvantages:

Such cladding has a very significant weight, and therefore puts additional load on the foundation of the building, especially in cases where the base has a large surface area. If finishing with natural stone is planned, this is usually calculated at the building design stage. The large mass of stone slabs also predetermines the increased complexity of their installation. Thus, very often even the highest quality adhesive solution is not enough, so there is a need for additional reinforcement and the use of special stops. Another significant drawback is, of course, the price of the material and the cost of installation work, which are not always available for independent execution.

Even the most inexpensive types of natural stone - shell rock or limestone - cost more than 1200 - 1500 rubles per m². More expensive types include granite and marble, with a polished or chipped surface.

Finishing with polished marble panels

Well, if there is a desire to achieve complete exclusivity, then wealthy homeowners sometimes resort to cladding with materials such as gabbro or even labradorite, the price of which is generally “exorbitant”.

Video: facing the base with sandstone

Cladding with artificial stone

In the case when you really want to use stone cladding for the base, but the material capabilities or design features of the building make this impossible, you can resort to another option - purchase artificial stone.

Finishing with high-quality artificial stone is no different in appearance from natural stone

The cost of the artificial analogue is much less, the mass of the material is not so significant, and the illusion of naturalness is almost complete.

Such material is made on the basis of cement-containing mixtures, often with the addition of light fractions (for example, expanded clay crushed stone), special polymer plasticizers and micro-reinforcing components. Tiles are produced using vibration casting technology in special silicone molds that exactly replicate the natural texture of the stone, or by hyper-pressing.

Laying hyper-pressed tiles “under the stone”

The release form may vary. Thus, piece tiles with standardized correct sizes are widely used. No less popular are sets that are assembled per unit area, the individual tiles of which can have different linear dimensions. This type of finishing of the base is carried out in the usual way - by laying it on construction tile adhesive for external work.

Artificial stone panels of the “Canyon” type

To facilitate the installation of the plinth cladding, you can purchase ready-made artificial stone panels, for example, the “Canyon” type. At the production stage, metal mounting brackets with a precise geometric arrangement are embedded into their concrete structure. These parts allow you to mount ready-made panels on the surface of the plinth not with mortar, but with fasteners - an indisputable advantage, especially when cladding along subsystem guides.

Find out how to install artificial stone with your own hands with detailed instructions from our new article.

If desired, such panels can also be installed on an adhesive solution - brackets bent inward will only increase the reliability of adhesion to the surface.

Another option is that tiles made of artificial stone are attached with reliable polyurethane adhesive to a rigid base, with or without insulation - this can be a slab made of OSB, fiber cement or glass magnesite. Such a substrate greatly simplifies the installation of the cladding and gives it additional thermal insulation qualities.

Rigid base panels

The well-thought-out locking part of the panels completely hides the joints between them, creating the effect of natural stonework. The texture of the outer surface can be chosen to suit your taste - rock, crushed stone, tuff, slate, etc. Mosaic solutions with the inclusion of artificial mini-slabs of a different texture or color are also popular.

Finishing the base with brick or “brick-like”

The severity of the brickwork of the plinth always gives the building a special respectability and is in perfect harmony with any possible type of decoration of the rest of the façade area. To achieve this effect, you can use one of the existing options:

Cladding the base with natural brick. This approach has the advantage that it is possible to create a ventilated gap between the base itself and the cladding, or fill this space with insulating material. In addition, the brick itself will also serve as additional thermal insulation, especially if hollow varieties are used. However, it must be remembered that the brickwork itself will need a strip foundation - this issue should be taken into account when planning construction. Although they do it differently - they create their own support for the masonry, which will subsequently be combined with a concrete blind area around the foundation.

We recommend: Which floors are best for an apartment?

Brick cladding of the base

Various types of bricks are used for cladding the basement.

- The heaviest - hyper-pressed, characterized by very high strength and extremely low water absorption - something that is especially necessary for the base. You can purchase bricks of a variety of sizes - from the “Russian” standard 250 × 120 × 60 mm to the elongated “American” one.

— The most economical option is sand-lime brick, but it is not particularly popular for such finishing work.

— Ceramic bricks, including clinker bricks, usually have a hollow internal structure, which significantly reduces the weight of the cladding itself and provides a pronounced thermal insulation effect.

However, it is not always possible to make real brickwork and, to be honest, it is not always advisable, because such a decorative effect can be completely achieved by using clinker facing tiles.

A simpler and more affordable option is clinker tiles

The material used to make it is in no way inferior in its performance characteristics to brick, and correctly laid tiles give an absolutely reliable appearance of full-fledged brickwork. A variety of sizes, colors, external textures, special methods of surface decoration (using artificial aging technologies, uneven firing, inclusion of additional fragments) allows you to give the building’s base an absolutely unique look.

Variety of shapes and colors of clinker tiles

As a rule, collections of clinker facing tiles also include corner elements, which make it possible to simplify the masonry as much as possible without disturbing its overall pattern.

It will be even easier to veneer the protruding part of the foundation “like a brick” if you use plinth panels.

They can be produced on a thermal insulating polyurethane foam or polystyrene base. The tiles (clinker or artificial stone) are placed and fixed on them in precise compliance with the rows of “brickwork”; tongue-and-groove joints will not allow mistakes during installation. Spaces are provided for placing fasteners for mounting panels to the wall or subsystem guides. There must be elements for decorating external corners without disturbing the linearity and “spacing” of the rows.

Base thermal panels - both decorative finishing and reliable insulation

In this case, polyurethane foam is preferable - the panels are more durable, the tiles are glued into them especially reliably, and they have better thermal insulation qualities. If you have to purchase expanded polystyrene panels, then preference should be given to extruded polystyrene foam of high density.

Video: installation of base thermal panels

If there is no need to insulate the base, then it is worth purchasing similar panels without a thermal insulation layer. In this case, the basis for rows of clinker tiles can be glass-magnesite, OSB or fiber cement panels.

— Fiber cement – durable, environmentally friendly, highly resistant to impact loads. However, they are quite heavy, which makes installation difficult. In addition, such panels do not like fracture loads, that is, they require special care during transportation and temporary storage.

— Panels based on OSB have practically no disadvantages - they are light, environmentally friendly, not afraid of external influences, of course, with the proper quality of the base.

— Glass magnesite is the most modern solution, since the material does not burn, withstands heating to very high temperatures, is not afraid of frost, and is resistant to ultraviolet radiation. A particular advantage is flexibility, which allows work to be carried out on walls even with slight curvature that could not be eliminated by other methods.

Corner cladding element on glass-magnesite base

The usual thickness of the glass-magnesite base is 8 mm, and this does not reduce the strength of the products or make the overall cladding design heavier.

Finishing with basement siding

The design features of the plinth or the entire façade cladding system do not always allow the use of natural or artificial stone (brick). It’s okay, very high-quality finishing can be done using basement siding, which will give full visibility of the natural material.

Base finished with polymer panels - siding

The term “basement siding” covers a huge variety of finishes. Panels can differ significantly in size, design, and material of their manufacture.

Base siding is made from polyvinyl chloride, polymer sand mixtures, fiber cement, and other composite materials. As a rule, the panels are mounted on the subsystem guides (in rare cases, directly on the wall), which makes it possible to place the required thickness of the insulation layer.

The sizes of the panels and their shape can also be very diverse. Most often, the panels have a locking part and specially provided areas for attaching them to the guides.

One of the types of plinth PVC panels

There are so many options for surface texture, imitation of this or that material, and colors that it is difficult to even roughly describe them.

The variety of options is beyond description

In addition to the traditional “stone” structure, basement siding panels can also take the form of rounded wooden beams (block house), ship planks or roughly chopped shingles.

An original solution - basement siding imitating wooden shingles

The main advantage of this approach to finishing the base is the light weight of the material, ease of installation, relative durability of the resulting cladding and ease of maintenance.

Video: polymer base siding “under the stone”

A necessary element for finishing the plinth is ebb and flow

The basement of the building may have a different location. So, it can be slightly “recessed” relative to the surface of the walls. Sometimes the base is flush with the rest of the facade, although this option is considered the most unsuccessful - it does not provide adequate protection of the base from precipitation. Most often, the base protrudes outward in the form of a kind of step. It is in this case that its finishing will lose its meaning if it is not accompanied by the installation of ebb tides.

A mandatory element with a protruding base is ebb tides

These structural finishing elements will reliably protect the protruding part of the foundation from direct precipitation, remove water from the surface of the base, and prevent moisture from penetrating into the cracks between the wall and the cladding materials

The ebb tides can be made from different materials.

In most cases, metal castings are used, which are made of galvanized steel sheets coated with a polymer coating, which provides additional protection against corrosion and gives the required decorative effect.

The most common are steel with polymer coating

You can find flashings made of aluminum, and as the most expensive option - even from sheet copper: they will harmonize especially well with the copper roof of the building.

Exclusive option - copper sheet ebbs

Video: installing metal ebbs on the plinth

Plastic moldings will cost slightly less, but this material does not have the same durability as sheet metal, simply for reasons of lower mechanical strength. To protect the base, this option is rarely used. Although, if the walls of the house are decorated with PVC siding, then the polymer cast will look very advantageous. If the plinth ledge is large enough, and its cladding is made of brick or clinker tiles, then laying out ebbs from profile ceramic (clinker) blocks is an excellent option.

Figured clinker brick

They can be in the form of a brick with edges beveled in one direction, or in the form of rectangular tiles with a plane inclined to the horizon to ensure water drainage. The surface can be ordinary or with a glazed layer applied (smalt tiles).

Profile clinker panels with smalt coating - beautiful, but expensive

This low tide belt looks very impressive. But, however, its arrangement will require large material costs and a labor-intensive installation process, which can only be performed by a very highly qualified master.

So, there are a great many options for finishing the base. You should evaluate in advance your financial resources, the fundamental feasibility, feasibility, decorativeness and operational qualities of the selected cladding, and the availability of its independent implementation. Ideally, all these issues need to be thought through at the stage of drawing up the design of the future structure.

Siding

Siding is a modern material that has gained popularity due to its availability and low price, easy installation and aesthetic appearance. The panels are easy to install yourself. They look neat and harmonious. Moreover, they are versatile. Siding is used for finishing buildings made of any materials. It is easy to clean and effectively protects the structure from the negative influences of the external environment.

The following types of siding are produced today:

Vinyl siding consists of individual PVC panels that imitate stone, brick or wood. It does not dry out or rot, tolerates temperature changes, and is resistant to frost and ultraviolet radiation. Vinyl panels are light in weight, so they do not put a strong load on the walls and foundation of the house;
Wood siding or clapboard is made from dried and treated wood. This is the most environmentally friendly and safe material, therefore it is suitable for finishing a house made of logs or timber. It looks neat and harmonious, holds heat well. However, wood siding is expensive and requires constant maintenance. Treatment with antiseptics, fire retardants and various paints and varnishes is done once every 3-7 years, depending on the type of product. Without the necessary care, wooden lining will not last long;
Metal siding is made from aluminum and steel. It is resistant to temperature changes and easy to clean, and is highly durable and durable. However, the metal is not resistant to moisture and if the top layer of the panels is damaged, corrosion begins. In addition, metal siding increases the weight of the house and increases the load on the foundation.

Before installing siding, the wall surfaces are prepared, old finishes, dirt and dust are removed. Then install a sheathing of bars, which are placed at a distance of 0.5 m from each other. The lathing will ensure proper ventilation. In addition, insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier films are laid in the spaces between the bars. The panels are already attached to the sheathing on top.

Types of finishing the foundation of a private house with your own hands

After the house is erected, it is time to begin finishing work. Many people decide in advance on the choice of materials and think through all the details down to the smallest detail. In addition to finishing the walls, it is necessary to pay due attention to the foundation of the house. Experts advise not to skimp on its cladding, because the appearance of the base is one of the main points when building a house. What is most important – aesthetics or practicality, and is it possible to combine these things into one whole?

Installation tools and materials

To install tile cladding you will need:

the tile itself;
glue: selected by composition, it must match the finishing material and improve its properties and is approved for outdoor use (for example, SM 117, Isomart AK-22, Ferozit, etc.);
grout mixture: choose a color that matches the tile or a contrasting one; cement-based mixtures are considered the best.

Tools:

rubber hammer;
spatula-trowel;
Shaulsky's ladle;
notched spatula, where the teeth are no more than 5 mm;
scraper;
plastic crosses;
construction pencil, knife, fishing line, screws;
construction mesh.

Auxiliary:

roulette,
squares,
laser level,
aluminum rules.

The solution is mixed with a mixer or a puncher with a special attachment.

How to fix porcelain tiles or clinker tiles

If heavy materials such as porcelain tiles or clinker bricks are simply placed on glue, on a plastered surface with grooves, perhaps they will stick normally. And they can even stand for some time. Even several years. But then they will begin to fall off along with the solution. Especially in places where there are no grooves or they are of insufficient depth. To improve adhesion, you can apply a layer of impregnation that improves adhesion (grip), but this is not a guarantee, especially if the material is heavy.

The same picture will happen if you glue the materials directly onto the insulation. The surface is smooth, easy to glue. But after a while the finish will fall off. Faster than with a plastered surface. There is a video about this.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to secure a metal painting mesh, preferably galvanized. It is secured with dowels, placing a piece of galvanized steel on the dowel-nail, the size of which is larger than the size of the cell. They are attached at the top, bottom and in a checkerboard pattern in the middle. This creates a reliable basis for material of any weight.

Glue is applied to the base and to the tiles. On the tile, remove it with a notched trowel, put it in place, tap the trowel handle and put it in place, leveling the plane. The distance between the tiles is maintained using crosses, only their thickness is taken to be significant 3-5 mm.

In general, the installation technology is similar to laying tiles. The only difference is that the glue must be special for outdoor use. The second difference: finishing materials for the plinth begin to be laid from below: they are heavy and need support. You rest the bottom row on the blind area, the second row on it, etc.

Ceramic tile

Clinker

Clinker tiles can also be used as a facing material. In the modern building materials market, clinker tiles are very popular. The surface may be different:

smooth;
unprocessed;
imitate brick;
imitate paving stones.

When finishing the basement of a house with ceramic tiles, the following work is expected:

Surface cleaning and leveling with special mixtures.
Padding.
Prepare the adhesive composition according to the instructions on the package. Applying a 4 mm thick layer to the foundation.
Laying should begin from the outer corner. Particular attention is paid to vertical seams, which should not coincide. To make it easier to create even seams, it is recommended to use special crosses, which are then removed.
The final stage is grouting the joints with special frost-resistant compounds.

To emphasize the unity of the created design of the entire house, clinker tiles are used not only for decorating the base, but also for the corners of the walls.

When applying the solution, care must be taken to ensure that no voids are formed. Otherwise, in winter they will expand and the tiles will fall off.

Finishing the foundation of a house with decorative plaster

Decorative plaster (as well as many facing materials) is applied to a previously prepared surface: cleaned and primed. Before applying some types of plaster, a mineral-based reinforcing mass is used.

If the base has significant irregularities and geometric deviations, as well as in cases where the layer of plaster exceeds 12 mm, before applying the decorative composition, a reinforcing mesh is attached to increase the strength of the plaster mortar and its better adhesion to the base. The mesh can be woven, welded, wicker.

If the thickness of the plaster layer is small, you can use a fiberglass mesh. Any reinforcing mesh used prevents cracking of the plaster during further use of the house.

The applied decorative layer can be smooth, rough, made with jointing or using imprints for various materials. For this purpose, special rollers and stamps are used. The finishing layer of the plastered surface is often various façade paints.

How to fix porcelain tiles or clinker tiles

Finishing the base of the house with natural stone (shell rock, granite, dolomite, slate)

No matter how attractive artificial shiny surfaces may seem, rough stone for some reason evokes great sympathy. But laying a rubble foundation is difficult and not everyone can do it well enough for a house to stand on it. But anyone can decorate a finished monolithic or prefabricated foundation with natural stone with their own hands, especially if at least part of the work on building a house was done personally.

It is clear that no one will attach whole stones: the finish will be too heavy, and very voluminous. That’s why they came up with the idea to slab or chop stones. Depending on the technology, the result is either a smooth “flagstone” - with almost smooth surfaces, or a “torn stone” with an uneven front part. Sometimes these materials are cut into identical rectangles, sometimes they are left in the form of uneven plates, but in any case it is natural stone and the decoration of the base of the house from it turns out to be beautiful and waterproof.

There is this material made from expensive stones, for example - marble, there is cheaper - slate, dolomite, shugnit, lemezite, granite, etc. They look very impressive. Especially if it is torn stone, although flagstone sometimes looks no worse.

The preparation of the surface will be exactly the same: it is best to fill the plastered plinth with a painting mesh, and then lay the stone plates on it with glue. If they are smooth - natural stone with processed edges - the laying technology will be exactly the same as described above.

If the stone has torn edges, finishing the base of the house becomes more difficult: it is necessary to select plates of such a shape that the seams are not too large. When using this option for finishing stone, you will need a grinder with a stone disc: most likely you will have to file down the plates of the lower and upper row. Correction will also be needed when decorating the corners. See the video for an example of this technology.

There is a second way. The plastered surface of the base is first coated with a compound to improve adhesion (adhesion), then fragments of finishing are installed on it with glue. They are fixed in a given position using scraps of the same stone or pieces of materials of the required size. The seams remain unfilled. After the glue has “set,” the seams are filled with a thin solution from a construction syringe, rubbing and tearing out as necessary.

In any case, any glue that gets on the finish must be removed in a timely manner. It will be very difficult to do this with a frozen one, and the appearance of the glue is far from attractive.

Sometimes, for a clearer pattern, the seams between the stone plates are painted with dark paint. Then the surface is coated with protective impregnation. It gives the stone a slight shine and also often increases its water-repellent properties.

For an example of cladding a plinth with natural stone using the second technology, see the following video.

Cladding with plastic siding

Their outer surface, using a special relief press and subsequent application of patterns, can imitate almost any finishing method - stone, brick, wood, ceramic tile.

To mask vertical and horizontal seams, the panels have special locks. Special corner elements are also produced that correspond to a particular design style, also equipped with camouflage locks.

Siding material can be easily sawed with a hacksaw. To install siding panels, you must first install a vertical wooden or metal frame, pre-installed on the base of the house.

The free space between the cladding and the plinth wall for the entire thickness of the frame is sometimes used for thermal insulation. To do this, the voids are filled with mineral wool or foam mats.

Video

How to finish with plinth tiles, see below:
Metal cassettes

Decorative concrete Decorative brick

Marble chips

Wood paneling and facade panels

Finishing with stone panels

Finishing with corrugated sheets

Plinth cladding

Why is it necessary?

The coating should not only be beautiful, but also reliable.
Designs of brick houses with a basement often involve using this floor as part of the living space of the house. This means that the basement will be connected to the heating system, therefore, in case of poor thermal insulation, energy losses are inevitable.

Moreover, the maximum losses will occur through the above-ground part of the walls of the basement gap. The floor in the basement is located quite deep underground and does not freeze in winter due to natural insulation by an infinitely thick layer of earth. The ceiling is also protected by the warm ground floor, and heat does not escape through it.

Only the walls of the basement masonry remain, and here the purpose of their cladding becomes clear:

The finishing coating allows you to protect the plinth masonry material from moisture penetration. The basement, located at the very bottom of the structure, is most susceptible to contact with water, which penetrates from the thickness of the concrete foundation, flows down the walls of the house during rain, contacts the masonry in the form of snow drifts, enters in the form of splashes bouncing off the ground, etc.;
Brick houses with a basement require high-quality insulation, and the insulation, in turn, requires finishing and protection. Here we see the need for a durable and reliable cladding that will hide the thermal insulation and protect it from wear and damage;
The plinth structure is subject to heavy loads, since the entire house presses on it. In addition, if the basement is unheated, then its walls may freeze, and the accumulated moisture will expand and damage the structure of the material. Therefore, it is better to protect the masonry from moisture and frost using appropriate finishing;
The proximity of the ground leads to various types of debris, dirty splashes of rain, dust, etc. falling on the lower part of the wall. Porous brick or concrete absorbs all these substances and becomes dirty. The presence of a durable coating makes this problem insignificant, since the dense surface of the facing material is easy to clean.

The masonry is protected with a durable waterproof coating.

It also often happens that projects of brick houses with a basement contain a scheme in which the basement gap is formed by a continuation of the walls of the concrete foundation. The above-ground part of such a foundation does not fit well with the brickwork of the walls and needs to be lined with suitable material.

Types of finishes

To decorate the surface of the plinth space, the most durable materials are used, in the photo - large sea pebbles.

The options for finishing the basement of a brick house are very diverse. The construction market is overflowing with all kinds of materials and technologies that can be used for these purposes. In addition, natural raw materials are widely used, including various types of natural stone, sandstone, pebbles, etc.

Of the modern technologies, the most in demand are such varieties as ventilated facades, siding, blockhouse, metal profiles, stamped concrete, ceramic facade tiles, porcelain stoneware and others.

Stamped concrete imitates natural materials well.

As practice shows, laying natural materials such as marble, granite, pebbles or sandstone requires extraordinary abilities and extensive experience, which means you will have to hire expensive craftsmen. At the same time, the price of the stone itself is also very high, and as a result, facing work can be too expensive.

Marble covering is too expensive and turns the house into a mausoleum.

Based on these considerations, we have identified the most practical and affordable methods for finishing basement masonry:

Ventilated facade. The coating made of porcelain stoneware and other relatively natural materials looks great;
Siding. Easy and quick to install, relatively cheap and perfectly imitates all types of natural coatings;
Metallic profile. The cheapest and simplest coating, at the same time quite durable and reliable, although not entirely aesthetic.

Porcelain tiles are beautiful, simple and reliable.

What to cover the base with?

The most popular options for finishing the base:

clinker or porcelain tiles;
a natural stone;
siding;
fake diamond;
facing brick;
decorative plaster;
regular plaster + painting.

Tile

The disadvantages of tiles are that they are not the cheapest coating and are quite heavy (although lighter than most types of natural stone). Installation is difficult, especially if the tiles are laid diagonally rather than in parallel rows.

But this coating is characterized by strength and durability (up to 50 years), high chemical resistance, water resistance, and fire resistance. Not susceptible to fungal infections, rotting, or corrosion. Good heat/sound insulation characteristics, many design options. The most popular type is brick tiles. Brick colors are any: in addition to the classic red and gray silicate, there are white, black, brown, etc.

When choosing, you should pay attention to the water absorption of the material: the lower it is, the higher the frost resistance. The tiles are laid on cement mortar or tile adhesive

During installation, it is recommended to strengthen the support profile along the lower border of the plinth and install the tiles on it: this way the masonry will not slide.

Plasters

The cheapest way to finish the basement of a house with your own hands is ordinary plaster and subsequent painting. Disadvantages of this option: not very durable, not the most aesthetically pleasing, difficult to remove the surface of the finishing layer. Pros: the plaster “breathes” (i.e., it prevents condensation from accumulating under the cladding), maintainability, low price. You can choose any color. If desired, even paint the base using a stencil.

Decorative plasters are much more expensive and more aesthetically pleasing. You can choose not only the color, but also the texture: Venetian marbled plaster, structural with mineral chips to match different types of stone, coating with a relief pattern, smooth, rough, etc. Finishing with this material is more difficult than with any other. Pros: the coating is breathable, durable, frost-resistant.

Fake diamond

It has almost all the advantages of natural:

strength;
water resistance;
frost resistance;
aesthetics;
many finishing options: different types of stone, brick, “torn” stone, rocky, imitation cobblestone, etc.

The advantages in comparison with natural stone are lower price, easier installation and significantly less weight (and therefore the load on supporting structures). Disadvantages: shorter service life and mechanical strength.

PVC siding

Pros: water resistance and chemical resistance, mechanical strength, affordable price, insignificant weight, durability (up to 50 years), wide temperature range (+/-50), easy installation, many colors and design options. The most serious disadvantage is thermal expansion. During installation, it is necessary to ensure that there are technological gaps at the joints of the panels with shaped elements and at the points of attachment to the frame.

Siding is installed using a frame method or mechanically attached directly to the base.

Natural stone

This is the most expensive and prestigious finishing of the plinth. In terms of strength and durability, natural stone ranks first among all materials, but it has the heaviest weight. This type must be chosen taking into account the bearing capacity of the base. The variety of natural stones creates unlimited design possibilities. Breeds:

granites, dark and light;
marble;
sandstone;
limestone;
slates;
dolomite, etc.

Rocks vary in density, porosity, and mass. Light types of stone (for example, sandstone) can be glued to the wall using frost-resistant glue or mortar. Heavier ones are attached using a frame method.

The frame is made of steel reinforcing mesh and anchors. The procedure for installing the cladding:

Clean the surface and dry.
Apply primer.
Place reinforcing mesh on the plaster layer and strengthen the anchors.
Drill holes for anchors in large stones.
The stones are installed with glue, fixed to the anchors using the holes made.
Fill the seams between the stones with glue. Small pebbles are placed in large gaps.
After drying, the seams are rubbed.
The finished masonry is subjected to hydrophobic treatment with a silicone compound and varnished.

Why is it necessary?

Finishing the basement of a building allows you to solve several problems:

Protection of the base and foundation from the negative effects of moisture, high and low temperatures and other negative natural factors that reduce strength, and therefore reduce the durability of the surface.
Protection from pollution, which is not only an aesthetic problem, as it might seem at first glance. Dirt contains aggressive components, for example, road reagents. With prolonged exposure, they can damage even such a reliable material as concrete, causing erosion on the surface.

Increasing the biostability of the foundation - modern façade materials prevent damage to the foundation by rodents and prevent the appearance of fungus or mold on the surface.
Insulation of the foundation, which helps to increase the thermal efficiency of the building and also helps maintain the integrity of the material. It is known that when the temperature drops significantly, erosion occurs on the concrete surface.
Finally, the finishing of the base element has a decorative value. With the help of this or that material, it is possible to transform a house and achieve its maximum compliance with a certain style.

Peculiarities

The protruding part of the foundation, in contact with the facade of the building, is constantly exposed to various types of influences:

Chemical. Atmospheric precipitation, dirt, reagents fall on the surface;
Biological. The foundation is partially located in the ground and interacts with organisms living in the soil;
Physical. Daily, seasonal changes in temperature, air humidity;
Mechanical. Blowing by winds that carry different grains of sand.

In view of these circumstances, the increased load experienced by this part of the building, it must be protected. The choice of materials for cladding, as well as the work itself, should be approached thoroughly, taking into account the following requirements that raw materials for finishing must meet:

Moisture resistance. The material must reliably protect the wall from rain, snow, condensation, so that moisture cannot get onto the surface of the base or penetrate through the finish. Otherwise, this may lead to the destruction of not only the base of the building, but also its facade. In humid environments, fungus and mold often appear, which cause an unpleasant odor.
Resistance to mechanical damage. The stone or tile must have a high level of strength; together with the transitional part, they hold the entire load created by the walls of the structure and distribute it evenly over the base.
Thermal conductivity. Allows you to retain heat in the house and serves as additional insulation.
Immunity to temperature changes. Due to the properties of the material to shrink and expand as a result of temperature fluctuations, cracks may appear on the surface of the cladding, which will lead to a decrease in resistance to moisture, frost resistance, and subsequently to the destruction of raw materials.

How to cover the foundation of a house outside?

The material for the base is purchased taking into account the following factors:

Installation technology. There are two methods for covering the surface: dry and wet. The first assumes that the selected products are laid on a previously erected frame. If the specifics allow, then the products can be mounted directly, without lathing. The second option is more labor-intensive: to cover the base, you will need to use glue or a suitable solution. You can also finish the foundation of a house using plaster, which will act as an independent product.
Frost resistance. First of all, the climate of a particular area is taken into account. The purchased products must withstand many cycles of defrosting and freezing and not be subject to deformation. When installing elements with glue, the composition used must also meet this requirement.
Resistant to water and aggressive substances. The foundation sheathing should not strongly absorb moisture and react when chemical compounds come into contact with it.

They also pay attention to the manufacturer of the product and the place of purchase. It is better to give preference to trusted brands and specialized retail outlets

Vinyl panels

Basement siding

Among the budget methods of finishing a base, this is the best. The whole secret lies in a simple installation method: the elements are joined together using a tongue-and-groove method. The result is a durable surface. Thanks to siding, the foundation of the house will be reliably protected, since the innovative material has significant advantages:

resistance to high and sudden temperature changes;
durability;
low sensitivity to moisture;
There is a wide range of colors and shapes of slabs.

Basement siding installation diagram

In most cases, vinyl panels are used when external insulation is necessary. The algorithm of actions is quite simple and implies the presence of the following processes:

Waterproofing: the film is laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm and fixed with nails or construction tape.
Installation of horizontal lathing. Metal slats are used. The pitch is calculated individually according to the following scheme: 1/3 of the panel length. In this case, the lowest bar should rise above the ground at a distance of 15 cm. The resulting gap should correspond to the size of the insulation plus 3 cm for ventilation.
Installation of heat insulator and vapor barrier.
At the bottom of the sheathing, at the corners, the first strip (corner profile) is fixed.
Subsequent panels are secured to the starting strip and loosely screwed with self-tapping screws. There should be a 3 mm gap from the cap to the panel, since the material can change in volume under the influence of atmospheric phenomena.
For a protruding base, a special ebb is installed on top.

The unique siding production technology allows you to convey the texture of expensive wood, natural stone and other materials.

Decorating the base

Decorative finishing of the foundation is considered an integral part of the process. The following options apply:

Coloring. It is carried out even after the passage of time.

You can choose the shade that best suits the cladding of the house and makes the base stand out. Use decorative or textured plaster. This material is tinted and may include a fraction of natural stones or sand. This gives an unusual effect when applied correctly.

Decorative plaster in the design of the basement floor

Creating a relief surface. For this purpose, simple facade plaster is used, on which an imitation of stone or brick masonry is formed. Additionally, painting in different tones is carried out. The simplest is the use of materials with the desired imitation.

Working with a plinth is a rather complex undertaking, the basis of which is the correct choice of products.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=mv_OOtxWixMrel%3D0%26amp%3Bcontrols%3D0%26amp%3Bshowinfo%3D0

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Fastening finishing material - details about the process

If the work is done correctly, the result is impressive and remains in its original form for many years.

It's time to talk about how you can decorate the foundation yourself with one or another stone - artificial or natural

It is also worth paying attention to the article on how to decorate the base with porcelain stoneware

First - preparation

As with any job, you need to prepare first. Namely: getting all the necessary materials and tools, without which finishing the foundation of a house with stone will definitely not work.

What exactly is needed

? Actually the list is not that long:

You can't do without spatulas. You will need several types: medium, small straight, and also jagged;
It is necessary to buy glue for the stone in exactly the volume that is needed in order for the cladding of the foundation to be of high quality;
You should have plaster and putty on hand - to eliminate various unevenness, make leveling, you also cannot do without a primer;
An appropriate container is needed for the adhesive composition;
In such a matter as finishing the foundation of a house with stone, it is impossible without a mallet - rubber or wooden.

Before finishing the foundation, the surface must be prepared for the subsequent procedure.

What else do you need to know before starting work with any type of stone?

The foundation surface needs special preparation. All potholes and cracks, if any, must be carefully repaired. It is also necessary to remove any unnecessary elements from the surface, if any are present;
Places on the surface where differences in height are noticeable need to be leveled. Although, you don’t have to focus on this: the stone will correct all the unevenness on the base.
Afterwards, it is customary to treat the visible part of the surface with a primer - only in this case, the lining of the foundation with stone will be done efficiently.

Finishing the foundation surface with stone - work

The stone finishing is almost complete

When all the work discussed above has been completed, facing the foundation of the house with stone can be done without problems.

How should we proceed here? Usually it goes like this:

The stone in front of the foundation of the house is laid out directly in the way it is intended to be installed.

Even artificial stone looks impressive here

Next, prepare the glue. Here you need to adhere to all the recommendations regarding the proportions that appear on the packaging (everything is described in detail on almost any product); The glue is applied to the surface using a notched trowel. Next, it is spread over the surface of the foundation of the house in such a way that a not very large working surface is obtained - a couple of square meters is quite enough. It’s better not to do much; Afterwards, the master takes the stone in his hands and presses it to the surface of the foundation - as hard as he can. The ideal situation is when excess adhesive appears along the edges of the material; At this stage, you can tap the stone with a rubber or wooden mallet. To remove excess glue, use a small spatula - it does the job perfectly; All other stones are fixed in exactly the same way. It is customary to start all work from the lowest boundary of the foundation of the house (the one that is visible); There is no need to rush in such an important matter - finishing the foundation with stone cannot be done in one day (if you work without haste and fuss)

The layout is done in rows - it is important to first make the bottom row, after which it must be carefully fixed (the adhesive composition must harden); The same rule is also relevant for the case when a guide is used on which the facing material will rest - although many people forget about this. What to do if the house does not have a solid foundation, only piles? You can easily attach the sheathing to them and then attach the facing material to it - the structure will immediately become much more beautiful.

Decorative stone finishing of the foundation was completed successfully

This is how simple it is for any craftsman, even a beginner, to be able to easily decorate a stone foundation - his own home or some other building. However, if there is an opportunity to attract assistants, it is better not to neglect it; work will be much more convenient and more fun.

Also, before starting work, it is better to watch a video on how the foundations of houses are sheathed with stone.

Knowledge of this kind is never superfluous - that’s a fact.

Installation of ebb tides

In the construction of the plinth, the main element is the installation of the ebb

In the construction of the plinth, the main element is the installation of the ebb. The basement part of the building may have a different position, for example, it may be slightly recessed or protruding. If the plinth protrudes outward in the form of a step, it is necessary to install ebb linings. This design will be able to protect the foundation of the house from penetration and ingress of water in the form of precipitation and will prevent moisture from getting between the cladding and the wall. The material used is metal castings, which are made from steel with a necessarily applied polymer layer. The polymer layer prevents the development and formation of corrosion. For a budget option, you can use aluminum ebbs. The most reliable are drip tides made of copper.

When choosing materials for the construction of the basement, make sure that it will look compatible with the materials used for cladding the house. For example, in a brick house, a brick base will not be appropriate, but a concrete structure will look beautiful and harmonious.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=89udPT08big

Arrangement, types and technology of installation of ebb and flow sills for plinths and foundations

The junction of the plinth with the load-bearing wall is most susceptible to moisture penetration through the gap between the structural elements. As a result, materials may become damp. Even with waterproofing, there is no complete certainty that flowing water will not get under it. To solve this problem, ebbs located above the cladding are used.

The cheapest option is plastic models. They are characterized by a high level of water resistance, but do not tolerate low temperatures well, and they are also a very fragile material that can crack and split under mechanical stress.

Some of the most durable include ebbs made of copper, aluminum, and steel. Their cost is in the middle price category. At the same time, the products are impervious to moisture and tolerate temperature changes well. Installing the building material is simple; it is done using self-tapping screws.

For overhanging foundations with brick or stone cladding, concrete overhangs are a good solution. To increase their strength, ductility, and frost resistance, special plasticizers are added to the mixture during production.

One of the most expensive products is clinker tile construction. Clinker is resistant to various external factors and mechanical damage. Some models are covered with a layer of glaze.

Having chosen a suitable visor, you can begin installing it. The installation of each specific model will depend on the material from which it is made, as well as on the design of the building. For example, for wooden walls it is better to use plastic or metal options that are attached using self-tapping screws. For brick and concrete structures lined with tiles and stone, it is better to install concrete or clinker structures that are laid on the mortar. At the same time, their installation is carried out during wall cladding; if the finishing is already ready, it is better to use metal products. Before installation begins, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures. Seal the junction of the plinth with the load-bearing wall, using a level to make markings.

Installation of metal and plastic ebbs

The tides are chosen depending on the color, texture of the future facade and the personal preferences of the owner. Elements must be in harmony with all finishing materials. Otherwise, they will stand out unfavorably, and the slightest defect or distortion will be evident. Metal and plastic products have good performance characteristics.

Metal castings are made according to customer dimensions. You can leave them natural or paint them. Installation starts from the corner. For correct calculations, use special corners that come with the planks. All products match in color and size. At the next stage, the protruding parts of the building are finished.

According to preliminary calculations, low tides are marked. At the required points, at a distance of 50 cm, holes are drilled, applied to the wall and fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws. The lower part is attached to the foundation with an identical pitch. The joint between the ebb and the wall must be covered with silicone sealant or putty. Sheathing of straight sections is done last. The elements are overlapped.

Installation of concrete and clinker slabs

Such flashings are installed before the façade cladding or together with it, since adjusting them to size after complete installation will be difficult. It is better to use concrete and clinker structures in combination with a base made of natural stone, porcelain stoneware, or brick.

The ebbs are attached to a special adhesive composition for exterior use. Installation starts from the corner. To minimize processing of dense material, it should be positioned correctly immediately. It is necessary to calculate in advance the length of the ebb, taking into account the size of the parts, the width of the seam, the number of defective corner elements. If necessary, trimming is done with a tile cutter or grinder.

The back side of each tile is treated with glue. The clinker has special dovetail grooves for high-quality pouring of the mixture. All elements must be fastened strictly along the intended line. After complete drying, the joints are treated with putty and cladding of the building begins.

Installation of cladding

Polymer sand tiles are an excellent option for cladding a façade or basement.
Let's start installing the cladding. We will work with our own hands; the material we use is polymer-sand plinth tiles, which are attached using ventilated facade technology (also find out how much plinth siding costs).

The following are step-by-step instructions:

We put the walls of the basement in order, eliminate cracks and other defects, remove all protruding objects;

We remove dirt, efflorescence, dust and other foreign objects.

We mount the frame guide profiles. We use galvanized steel profile measuring 28x67 mm

It is important to maintain a strictly vertical position of the surface of the frame structure, and place all its parts in the same plane;

We install the frame.

Between the profile elements we install a layer of mineral wool, which we cover with a vapor barrier. Lubricate the cotton wool with glue and fix it with disc-shaped dowels;

We lay insulation between the guides.

We install a counter-lattice for laying tiles;
Starting from the left edge of the bottom row, we begin laying the tiles. We fix each tile using self-tapping screws through the fastening metal ears located on it, and fasten the bottom row with four self-tapping screws, and insert the subsequent ones into the locks and fasten them with two self-tapping screws;

We fix the tiles with self-tapping screws through special fasteners.

We install additional elements - corners, ebbs and ventilation grilles.

We complete the process by installing additional elements.

House basement options

There are several types of house basement, each with its own characteristics. Various forms are shown in the photo:

Sunken. This type is a structure that is located offset inward relative to the main facade. The recess is most often at least 50 mm. This device allows you to perform the work at low cost, and also make the drain less noticeable.
In one plane. This option requires complex sealing, so the drainage system must be fixed at the general construction stage. This will avoid further problems.
Speaker. To sheathe such a base at home with your own hands, it is necessary (as in the previous version) to carefully consider the drainage system. If it is not installed correctly, water accumulates in the area separating the foundation and the wall. To avoid such troubles, moisture removal is planned taking into account the finishing of the facade.

Finishing the base with plaster and other materials

Finishing the base with flagstone or decorative plaster is not far behind the refined options in popularity. Not inferior in quality to natural sea or river stones, flagstone is much easier to install, and its price is not shocking. Quite rare, for various reasons, options include cladding:

slate.
Due to increased fragility under mechanical stress, slate is not recommended for this work. But as an option for a small country house it is quite acceptable;
planed board.
The material has good moisture permeability, so it needs to be treated with special impregnations. Short-lived, must be replaced after a certain period of time;
edged tree.
Due to increased susceptibility to decay processes, it is not widely used. The exception is larch finishing, whose strength properties increase when interacting with moisture;

https://youtube.com/watch?v=89udPT08big

metal.
The option is acceptable with additional treatment with anti-corrosion compounds;
penoplex.
Penoplex insulating boards, when subsequently plastered, not only equalize the temperature, but also look quite attractive;
clinker.
Clinker-based products imitate natural materials, have good strength characteristics, and are easy to install without the involvement of specialists.

Interior decoration of a country house

Why is it worth paying special attention to this issue? Because people tend to do the interior decoration of a country house with their own hands much more often than large cottages. Owners are rushing around in search of a golden mean between budget and aesthetics of interior design

When choosing, in their opinion, the most successful options for interior decoration of a country house, they sometimes make global mistakes, because they forget that the dacha is a seasonal home and is not heated in cold weather. In such an interior, neither wallpaper, nor drywall, nor armstrong can be used. Why?

Wallpaper

Although this is the best option for economy class renovations, it is better not to use them for finishing a country house. Even the most modern, super-technological wallpapers are imperfect. Their outer surface may not be afraid of moisture, but the inner surface is not protected at all, so if your plans do not include equipping the house with a heating system, then decor of this type has no chance of staying on the walls. The canvases will simply fall off the damp walls.

Wallpaper is the best option for economy class renovations

Drywall

Another excellent and easy-to-install method of interior decoration of a cottage, which is not applicable in a country house. Don’t be under the illusion that if you buy a moisture-resistant version, you won’t have any operational problems. The catch is that manufacturers only apply waterproofing treatment to the front side of the sheets. The inner side is not protected from the destructive effects of moisture. If condensation forms under the plasterboard sheathing, the repair will have to be redone very soon.

Finishing house walls with plasterboard

Armstrong

This material is mainly the prerogative of office decoration, however, thrifty summer residents often strive to solve the issue of finishing the ceiling in just such an economical way. But such savings backfire, because Armstrong is also hydrophobic, and at the slightest dampness it loses its rigidity. Since sheets of material laid out on a metal frame rest on it only with their edges, this provokes their immediate deformation and sagging. The only consolation in this situation is that you can replace “rotten” modules without damaging the rest of the decor.

Armstrong panels for finishing the ceiling of a house

Installation of ebb tides

They can be metal, aluminum, plastic. A more beautiful, but expensive, ebb can be installed from clinker shaped bricks or beveled clinker tiles, but the installation method is quite complicated, so you can’t do it without a professional.

Stages of work:

After cladding the base and before cladding the walls of the house, it is necessary to strengthen the flashings.

for better adhesion of the ebb to the surface of the base, we make slopes at an angle of 15 degrees, level the top line horizontally, if necessary. The cement mortar should be thick.
We wait a few days, the cement should dry thoroughly.
We attach the sills directly to the wall using dowel nails.
if the facade of the wall is sheathed along guides, then the ebbs must be attached to these guides with self-tapping screws.

The process of finishing the basement is quite labor-intensive, so it is important to use high-quality materials from the huge selection of building materials for finishing it, so that you don’t regret anything later, since the basement is a very important part of the house for preserving the warmth and strength of the building. And don’t forget about the exterior of the building, everything should be harmonious

Finishing the base of a pile foundation

As you know, a pile foundation does not have a base. But if you don’t block off the space, there will be drafts under the house, the floor will always be cold, and all kinds of living creatures like to live under the house. Therefore, the base, although decorative, is necessary. It can be done in two ways.

A trench is dug along the perimeter between the supports, removing the fertile layer of soil and going 10 cm deep into the soil, the bottom of the trench is compacted, gravel is laid, and compacted again if possible. Then 2-3 rods of longitudinal reinforcement (10-12 mm) are placed and everything is filled with concrete. After 10-14 days, a half-brick wall is placed on the concrete base. You can use finishing bricks right away, or you can make them from used ones, and then finish them using any of the methods described above.
This method is suitable for finishing the base with facade panels (basement siding) or corrugated sheeting. A frame made of impregnated timber is attached to the piles. The rest of the finishing process is no different from the standard. Except that it is very desirable to insulate this option.

There is one subtlety if the house is installed on screw piles or TISE piles. Such foundations are often placed on highly heaving soils. To prevent the finishing from being destroyed when the soil is raised, it is not brought to a certain distance to the ground. To prevent animals from crawling into the gap, a metal mesh is fixed at the bottom.

Technologies for preparing the base for finishing

There are many options for decorative finishing of the base:

tile;
a natural stone;
fake diamond;
decorative plaster;
printed concrete;
panels;
thermal panels;
siding;
painting;
DSP, flat slate.

But as for preparing the surface, there are only two ways.

Plaster

If a reinforced base is needed for cladding with massive tiles, natural or artificial stone, without preliminary insulation of the base, plaster it with a thick layer over a metal mesh, previously fixed to the base with hardware.

rytik

If we talk about an economical option, then:

Prime the base.
Nail the iron mesh.
Plaster the DSP.
Place the artificial stone on good glue.

Use welded or expanded metal mesh, galvanized. Just not too flimsy - so that it doesn’t tear with your hands. Cell 10x10 mm or slightly less. One more observation. Somehow I knocked porcelain tiles off the base. Where the tile itself was completely smeared in glue, you won’t be able to get it off right away; where it was poorly smeared, the tile has already fallen off on its own.

When it comes to insulation, they use fiberglass mesh rather than metal, but in two approaches.

nadegniy

Penetrating primer diluted with water in three passes (1/6, 1/4, 1/2).
Sand the EPS on both sides with a hacksaw and glue it to the base using cement glue; if the surface is stained with bitumen, then glue it to polyurethane foam glue. Don’t forget to remove the mesh (fiberglass) and provide temperature-shrinkable seams.
After gluing, make the first base reinforcing layer: apply glue and embed armored fiberglass mesh 320-340 g/m² into it.
Do doweling through the mesh, 10-12 dowels per 1 m².
Make a second base reinforcing layer: apply glue and embed the main façade mesh 165 g/m².
Make a constriction with liquid glue.
After drying (after 72 hours), you can glue stone, tiles, clinker tiles, weighing no more than 50 kg/m², size no more than 300x300 mm, joint no less than 4 mm, elastic adhesive, facade, fill the joints with elastic grout, apply a water repellent on top .

Some craftsmen doubt the need to use elastic glue and grout, preferring to make do with DSP; this is fraught with problems.

RomanArch

It is imperative to use elastic glue, because deformation from temperature changes and freezing of moisture is what destroys the facade/basement and the tiles fall off. It is better to use a more plastic material for seams and joints so that they can compensate for such deformations, plus other, unforeseen deformations of the surface of the supporting structure are possible, due to settlement of the building, for example.

When the base is monolithic, the surface is fairly flat, without noticeable differences, and the finish is planned to be painted or applied with granular decorative plaster, you can do without a metal mesh and a thick layer. Basic reinforcement is enough - treat with a deep penetration primer, apply a thin layer of adhesive mixture and embed the façade fiberglass mesh into it. After drying, treat it again with a primer and apply granular decorative plaster in the manner recommended by the manufacturer or paint it with paint intended for the base.

Lathing

The lathing (subsystem) is used when lining the base with siding or panels, as well as concrete tiles fastened with screws. The subsystem can be metal or wood; for metal, a galvanized profile is used; for wood, it is assembled from timber (usually 50×50 mm), pre-treated with an antiseptic. If necessary, the base is pre-insulated with EPS sheets using glue, plus doweling, or simply coated with a deep penetration primer. The orientation of the guides depends on the finishing material - horizontally for vertical panels or siding, vertically for horizontal ones.

zzody

A budget option for finishing the base with siding (wall). House 10x8 m, base height 0.45 m, cost of materials 4,500 rubles, plus foam 220 rubles and one day of work. I liked the siding because of its unusual texture. I filled it vertically (longer, but beauty requires sacrifice) so that there is a contrast to the wall. Stuffed onto two horizontal bars 50x50 mm. Don't forget about the ventilation grilles. Everything turned out to be three times cheaper than making it with classic basement siding panels to look like brick - and it’s expensive, and like everyone else, I didn’t want it either. Take it into service.

The main difference between basement siding or basement polymer panels from wall panels is thickness and increased strength. But today manufacturers of wall siding offer material with improved performance characteristics, which can also be used to cover the base.